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mattcrackers last won the day on June 4

mattcrackers had the most liked content!

About mattcrackers

  • Birthday 04/12/1973

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  1. I thought I'd add this here to keep them all in one thread. Type 3 Lotus 16 Made in England with the chrome wheels and small drivers head. Don't see these pop up often if ever. This one came with the original box and paperwork. Another one off the list. cheers Matt
  2. Very nice work Chris, as always. Always love seeing pictures of your brass chassis builds.
  3. DM, it was one of your posts I read elsewhere regarding the replaced motor pod. And all the other problems these trucks had when they were released. Cheers for the offer Gary but Mark has sorted one out for me.
  4. Thanks for the advice. I did intend to give it the once over but didn't bother after noticing the motor mount. Here's the motor mount Mark, after regluing it back together with a bit of supaglue. I also had to glue the screw mounting plastic pieces on as well, these fell off after removing the screws from the motor, quality stuff. Actually can't believe the plastic is this brittle. Surely they would have picked this up when assembling the truck in the first place. Looks like the ones top right in your pic, will send you a message. Matt
  5. Haha Phil, I suppose if I left it on the shelf/in the filing cabinet I would have never known anyway. It's already back in the box, but I will repair it. Like I said in Munters other post, instead of buying more new cars I thought I'd just start using the ones I have already. Thanks for the offer Mark, I'll pull out the motor pod tonight and see if it matches any of yours in the pic. I did think about sending a message to the manufacturer but after I posted this I did some searching around the net. Apparently the manufacturer sent a replacement motor pod to others with the same problem which was cracked upon arrival so I won't even bother. I'll repair/remake the motor pod with plenty of reinforcement. Might even just reglue, make a mold and make a direct replacement out of resin. It'll probably be stronger than the original anyway. Then put it back in the filing cabinet under, 'USE AT YOUR OWN RISK', lol. I do have a few of the Avant Slot cars, mainly the Peugeot 908's which I have run and had no problems with on timber tracks. Either way I'll get it back up to scratch. Matt
  6. You unbox a brand new car (in this case a truck) to find out it's not worth the money you paid. Ok, so I purchased this many years ago now (around 2016 I think) and had read about problems with the chassis cracking where the truck had been screwed to the plinth. This Avant Slot 6 wheeler has never been removed from the plinth until today. As I've been going through the collection and running some cars I thought I'd get this out and give it a slow lap or two. Nice looking slot car/truck which is why I purchased it in the first place. Unfortunately it won't even be able to manage to go let alone do a lap. Unscrewed it from the plinth to find this. Now I'm pretty sure the motor mount isn't supposed to be snapped off at the axle is it. Hey, but the good news is the chassis wasn't cracked from being over screwed to the plinth.
  7. Quite easy to post pics now Grant, no need for the URL etc anymore. Just go to the bottom where your posting where it says choose files. Images courtesy of mrslotcar.com from Grants post above. Another couple of lovely Aussie cars. Another red XY, but damn she's nice. Yeah, and the Holden as well, lol. I did have a car turn up last week. Another Lotus 16 that I didn't have in the collection, don't see these pop up that often if ever. Type 3 with the chrome wheels and small drivers head, came with the box and original paperwork. Apart from the ridiculous postage cost I would of been more than happy for the price I picked this one up for.
  8. I don't buy many cars now, decided to start using some of the 500+ cars I already have. Saying that I do buy the Scalextric Falcons and Toranas. I remember years ago a post on here about what you would like Scalextric etc to make. Pretty sure I said an XY falcon as that is what I grew up in. Some years later and Scalextric have now released plenty of the Falcons, be it XB's, XC's, XW's or XY's. And I every time they release a new XY I'll get it of course, but they really have been taking the mickey with so many similar XY's released. And there's another coming soon, in red again. I always keep an eye out for the old 60's Lotus 16's I don't have in the collection, really just need the Aus/NZ ones made in NZ with the unpainted drivers. And a couple of the French and English Type 3's with chrome wheels. Not many but still a few left on the want list. Pretty much since racing finished at WASCRG I don't feel the need to buy any of the latest releases. If something does catch my eye, I usually think twice now about buying it, instead of getting everything I want. I enjoy every part of this great hobby, but I do find more enjoyment in restoring, repairing, building cars atm than racing. But this will change again over time, as it has done over the years now. Matt
  9. Thanks fellas, Yeah it came up alright but doesn't run the best at the moment. Next time I get to a timber track I'll play around with the gear ratio and a few other things. Mate actually gave me a AMT 1:25 Ford Galaxie yesterday. Looks like I'll be building another brass chassis sooner than later.
  10. Another build I did some time ago. Thought I'd already added it to this thread but apparently not. This was built from an AMT 1/25 Ford Fairlane GT/GTA kit a mate gave me for working on some of his cars. I had it for quite some time, sitting on the shelf, with no idea what I wanted to do. Saw this in a hobby shop and decided this is the way I'd go. Had the body, paint, decals etc but needed a chassis. With what I had in the shed I started building a brass chassis. I had some 1/24 ScaleAuto wheels I picked up years ago, might as well put them to use. Test fitted to the body to check clearances etc, front axle was a little to wide. Shortened the chassis to suit, test fitted again, was happy with how it was sitting so finished the chassis. I've put an NSR motor in it for now, still need to work out the right gear combination. Body kit was built up with the chrome parts blu-tacked in place. Body mounts added and adjusted to my liking. Body was given a coat of grey primer, sanded, followed by 2 coats light blue, sanding between coats and some orange stripes added. Finished with a clear coat. Probably the cleanest lines I've painted on a car yet. Glued all the chrome parts in place and fitted to the chassis with some ScaleAuto inserts from another car. Added some decals, chromed the wipers, door handles etc. Wasn't game enough to do all the chrome trim. Inserts had to go back on their original car so made some in black resin to suit. Windscreen glued in place. Front ride height can always be adjusted with spacers. Something I tend to not finish is the interiors on some cars, will get to them one day but for now this is how it is. And it runs, not that well with my choice of gearing at the moment, but It'll get there. One day.. Like the interior.
  11. Thanks Phil. Yes I have noticed when I mix the Pinkysil fast it creates plenty of air bubbles. Really got to learn to be a bit more patient, and pour from higher up. Rosco. I've used 5ml syringes for years and get many uses out of the one. Usually remove the plunger part, give the rubber a quick wipe with metho, stand upright and let set. Once hardened I push the set resin out with a small screwdriver, usually one that fits snug into the spout. They come in handy for pouring/squirting resin into the smaller molds, like figures etc. And yes, I also have been using a small plastic, round ended piece to get rid of air bubbles when doing the molds. Works well when doing certain slush molds where the side mirrors trap the air etc. I find cleaning out the unused resin from pots/syringes etc is easily cleaned up with a rag and metho as well. And wearing disposable gloves, which I re-use as well. Cheers for the advice fellas.
  12. Thanks fellas. Didn't build these overnight, probably took longer than it should have. Rosco, I have used EasyCast, actually the first resin I used. Great for fast casting but I found some things take longer than you expect. I do have a pressure pot which I made up but haven't had much success with it. An example is the Atlas Brabhams I did earlier in the year. Without the pressure pot. Nice smooth finish. With the pressure pot. Still something I need to get the hang of. Maybe too much pressure. not sure. Matt
  13. Here's something I did just to see if it could be done/if I could actually do it. Having limited experience with resin other than slush molds I thought I'd try my hand at something a little more difficult. A couple of years ago now a mate asked me to restore/repair a couple his cars from the Scalextric James Bond set. You can see them on page 9 of this thread. Anyway, because I had made a few molds to complete these two cars, had a better idea of what I was doing, I may have made up a few extra parts, just a couple. The pic below is of the parts which weren't up to scratch, but it gives you an idea of how many parts were needed. The tyres were home-made as well, but not pictured here. I originally used the Timber set with white dye to make the body and chassis (as seen in the pic above), actually came up quite good except for the hole in the roof, which wasn't an air bubble but unmixed dye. Nothing like waiting 24+hours to know you didn't mix the resin properly. Procast medium set resin with black dye was used for the seat, machine guns, guide and ejector seat lever and for most of the other parts. I used the timber set resin to make the lights and windscreen with a little red dye added to the mix to make the tail lights. Combine all these ingredients together and I ended up with this. A fully functional slot car. The body is Procast resin, painted white, wheels, bumpers, bullet proof screen, front grill and rear number plate have been chromed with the Molotow pen. Interior painted with my favourite cheap Bunnings red paint. Drivers head and the baddie have been painted to suit. Top off and bullet proof screen up. The only parts that weren't made were the axles, RX motor, wiring and springs and 4 screws. The springs used for the bullet proof screen I pulled out of one of those 4 coloured pens (you know, the blue one with blue,red,black and green inks). Axles were made from piano wire, ejector seat torsion spring off ebay (I needed one for the original so had some made to size and leftover). Only problem with the ejector seat torsion spring is I ordered it with 4 winds instead of 2, at least when it ejects the baddie he gets a free ride into space. And since it come up alright I thought it needed it's own box. Wasn't a bad build, taught me a lot about resin and making molds with the different variety of shapes etc. But, something was missing............... Yeah, I had to do the Merc as well. Quite easy compared to the Aston. Body is one piece, in Procast resin dyed black, interior with red dye. Bumpers from Procast with chrome pen. Windshield and lights from Timber set clear epoxy. And a little paint for the figures. And of course. it needed a box to match. A couple more pics of them both together. Thanks for looking. cheers Matt
  14. I have plenty of builds to start/complete. Since racing ended at WASCRG last year I've been mucking around with my home Scaley sports, 4 lane digital track. Finally have everything set up so I'd say it's finally time to get back on with some of my builds. When the bug bites I usually get stuck right into it.
  15. Thanks Gaz, Had this problem for months now since I mentioned it in another thread. Just got used to opening in a new TAB like DM has said. cheers
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