Nils

My bid $55.00. nils

Hi there Robbob, i am new to slot cars and forums also. In December 2010 i became the proud owner or a large routed track, ( formerly belonging to gzminiz) the layout is roughly 4.2m by 2.4m in size, and it to takes up the valuable shed space i have. I suppose that i am in an unusual position of having a big shed (20m x 10m)but it is still a problem. What i am in the process of doing is setting it up to be winched into the roof. i bought a 12 Volt winch for $80.00, some cable, and some pulley's. You can get 240 Volt winches, but i will use the winch for something else also where i need it to run off the car. I made a steel frame from square tubing with fold up legs and wheels, this was to sit the track table on. i needed to do this because the original track frame was not that well engineered. I am well on the was with this stage of the project, but will stop for a few weeks as i am flat out with work. i will do a bit of a posting when i have finished, which may help. seeya.

Thanks stu, that info is great, Lots more questions for you. i understand that MJK tyres need trueing up, do i have to buy the gadget, or is there another way??? Like maybe some sandpaper glued to a flat board, spin the wheels and hold the paper against them????? Glue all the way around or just in a couple of spots. Won't it be hard to fit the next set of tyres, or more the point remove the old ones??? How should the car be balanced, evenly all around, or biased toward the front or back??? And how much weight??? Can you put to much weight in??? There are quite a few guy's looking at buying their own cars, 3 others already have, so its created one hell of an interest,and one is even building a car from scratch from components, and one is well into building his own routed track. i would really like to keep the momentum going. I am going to tassy fishing for a few days, so i will be off line. Speaking of ferodore tracks, do they wear on some corners, causeing cars to slide more??? If so can i paint over this spot with ferodore to remedy the problem or is it more technical than that??? Thanks, nils

Thanks for that, it may seem obvious, but i am new to this hobby. There are no clubs nearby and the nearest retailer is 250 to 300km's away, so this is the most logical way for me to learn. what are the pitfalls in chooseing different tyres, are some hard to fit, do you have to true all or just some.how do you do that, what do you need. Do you buy the braid and fit it, or the little bit of plastic with it already fitted, is there a better braid than others. I would like to ring a supplier long distance and have a smattering of knowledge before i discuss it with them. Thankyou for your time. nils

Thanks mate, i have heard there are different tyres, some are hard to fit and some need trueing up( some thing else to learn and possibly more money for equipment maybe in the future). It is a routed track, i think, feradore is the coating. The cars have magnets, but i expect they are of no use as the track is wood. the cars are Scaletrix, 2008 BF ford (winterbottom), Holden L34 Torana ( Brock & Sampson), 2009 Holden VE Commodore (Murphy) and a Slot It Mclaren F1 GTR. I know it all seems obvious, but with lots of choice, no clubs near by and the nearest supplier 250 to 300 km's away. This seems the logical way to learn and get answers. Some advice would be great. nils

Hi guy's, for a light source for the timing circuit, i went an electrical trade supplier "Middendorp electrics" and purchased a strip of LED's with adhesive backing to put over my finish / start line. The beauty of this is not only did it look impressive when on, but it connected directly to the 12 Volt track power supply with no modifications or other electronic trickery. You could probably solder the wires to the light strip, but i chose to buy the lead for it and use that. i also went to my local Metal land and had them bend me up a simple light shade ? reflector out of stainless steel. I tried posting photos but photo but wasn't playing the game. follow the link to the website for the product. There are probably other uses on the track for their products, for those who are creative out there. http://www.superlux.co.nz/products.asp?id=358&product=1164 nils

Hi there guy's and girls, its been a few weeks since we have got the track up and running. Lots of fun has been had by all, with guy's now buying their own cars. I have even got UR 3.0 race management up and running, although i can't get the drivers mug shot to stay in the driver profile after i have put it there. The problem i am having now is that the cars don't seem to be handling as well as when they were new. They have all had a fair old flogging around the track. The gears seem to be wearing. The tyres are definately wearing. Brushes and guides are wearing. In my stable i have Scalectrix VE commodore, BF ford and L34 Torana and a Slot It, McLaren. What i am wanting to know is what sort of life are these components supposed to have and what should i replace them with??? Should the front wheels be actually running on the track, or just off the track resting on the guide??? What sort of regular track maintenance should i be doing??? (a routed track, formerly belonging to gzminiz) Obviously cleaning , but how??? Is there a basic set of rule for cars and raceing that we should be adhering to, so that if we go to another track we to race we can be competeing the right way??? Oh yeh where the heck is the spell check in this??? My Spelling is bad enough as it is. I am sure there will be plenty more questions to come as i learn this fun hobby. Any help and advice you could give would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, nils

Yep there will be no problems there. He's got the slot car bug bad. He's up late every night researching his his track and cars. Lucky his missus is understanding. ( they are both great people).

I settled for the basic professor motor controller which is upgradeable with the breaking control if i want to latter. nils

Hi there, i would like to say a big thank you to everybody out there that helped me get my track up and going with advise and encouragement over the last 2 weeks or so. Its been a steep learning curve and i have still much to learn. At least now i can race and learn as i go now. Below this message is my attempt at trying to my post photo's (from photo bucket). It doesn't seem right. Is there an easy way to put a pic in my posting??? Once again thanks. nils

Hi guy's, i recently bought a routed track. Finally i now have cars and controllers( Aussie V8's). Unfortunately the track has a couple of dead spots and some slow spots. I suspect that the legnth of the track has some thing to do with Slow spots, and that there maybe some breaks in the track which are causing dead spots. I can't see these breaks with my poor eyesight. Is there some logical basic testing i can do??? And how do i go about it??? Any other ideas??? Thanks, nils

Hi guy's I like to thank every one for their help and advise to date. I now have my controllers but, don't know how to wire them to the 3 point socket (240 volt style). Can any one help please. nils

Hi there Shodan, i have had a look at those controllers and i haven't got my head around the brakeing control. How do you use it and how does it work??? they seem a lot more expensive, is it worth it??? My track spacing is 95mm i am presuming i will be using 1/32 scale if that helps you answer the questions. thanks, nils

thanks for that, Specifically why would i need to vary the voltage??? ( i assume that is what the controls next to the meters are.) Thanks, nils ( i am excited)

Thanks for that, I finally got the track moved onto a steel, wheeled, table frame last night. i have never heard of parma womp cars, i will have to look into it. As for the track the spacing between the tracks is 95mm average (2 to 3 mm variaTION IN SPOTS). yep i will whack up a photo when i figure out how. Thanks for your advice, nils