espsix

Well done, the trigger on the PM controllers, was the worst thing about them.

All depends on the type of races you plan on running in. sprint races, the cheap ones are fine, buy a lot, so you can sort them into usable pairs, and wash them out with shelite, then use a bearing holder alignment tool to get the most out of them. and, yes, use the beater fitting ones in the rear. the Gold plafit ones are open style bearings, so need cleaning between races. I use them in cars that are raced in the longer races.

BRM do a alloy 33t spur gear that is a direct fit on revoslot, as they both use the same gear set. check that both the spur, and pinion is concentric on the revoslot, as some of the early ones were very bad.

No I don't have either of those controllers, just going by what I've experienced with other controllers. I just went and had another read on both the 01, and 02, and your right, very confusing. You can test the controller by hooking a volt meter to the track rails. Set all the dials to zero, or one (1). Which ever is lower. Start by just squeezing the trigger until you get a reading, as in at the start of the trigger throw, just off brake, then try turning up the " start " dial as see if the volts increase, if so, that's sensitivity, or min speed, try the other dials just to make sure they don't do anything. Then I'd test the " step " dial by squeezing the trigger until you get the same volt reading as the power supply is set to. Try this at different setting on the dial, working your way from min, to max, and see if full voltage is reached before getting to the end of the trigger throw. I read the description of the " step " as moving the full power point up and down the trigger throw. Then test the " sensibility " dial! squeeze the trigger until it's just off full power, ( so any kind off full power relay is not activated ), then try turning the "sensibility" up, if the volts decrease, this would likely be traction control/choke/anti spin. You might have to try that with the "step" dial in both minimum, and maximum positions. You can also have a car on the track with its rear wheels lifted of the surface, so you can see what happens to a car during each test, and test the brake dial. I hope what I've just said makes sense, and helps. I have the TruSpeed PWM II, and it's a great controller, but I rarely use it, but that's because I have to many other controllers. The PWM II won't be rereleased, it will become the PWM 3.

Not sure if your talking about the 01, or the 02. But the 02 has a bit better explanation of the controls. From my experience with various controllers, " step " usually means " end step ", as in how large the difference between 99% and 100% is. eg: on a 12 volt track, 100% is 12v, 99% can be adjusted to be anywhere from 11.9v, to say 10v. Have a look at the SlotIt scp2 instructions, I'm sure it has this feature, also go have a look at the TruSpeed PWM II, on the TruSpeed site, it has this feature. As for " start ", that usually means minimum speed, as in when you first squeeze the trigger, and the car is getting power, the higher you set this, the faster the car will go. I would also think " sensibility " would be " traction control, or anti spin ", what ever you wish to call it, and " start " would be more " Sensitivity " on a English speaking controller. As for a structured approach to tuning the controller. Only change one thing at a time! What you can do is give it to someone who is familiar with " multi adjustment " controllers, and get them to set it for you for your favourite car, and use that as I base. I've done this once or twice for new guys, as they tend to get " lost " with all the different adjustments, when they get their first multi unjust net controller.

Have you looked at Ace Hobbies, Werner has a range of GT style bodies.

I don't think that going off topic is a problem, when talking face to face, a conversation can go from one subject to another, especially if it involves more than two people.

Noel, I think it means white front lights, and red tail lights, as per real cars. I think a lot of people were starting to Color their lights for easy identification during the " night " portion of the racing.

25 Ohm will give you a better range, I get mine from evilbay. 3watt 25 Ohm. Will be fine

Yes, and one I got from you at MCN at Red Racer a couple of years ago.

Yes, it comes with a 3/32 nd, and 1/8 th shaft, but they are both steeped from 3 mm, so as tony said, just replace with a full 3 mm axle. Buy spare secondary drive belt, as they break all the time because of the crap way the drive system is set up. I only use my Hudy for turning down to approx size, then finish off to final size with my TyreTrue the next day.

Logged into the forum again, or Telstra.

Well my Truspeed MTII turned up last Thursday, and I have to say the build quality is first rate, as usual from Steve Hills, I also own one of his PWM II, and it's hard to believe that these are not mass produced by a large company. The trigger is soooomth, almost contactless in its feel, and the whole thing is nice and light. Now to the negatives, if you could call them that. The controls on top are very smooth, meaning they have no feel, so, mid race I found it hard not to over adjust, no doubt I'll get used to them in time. I got the high power one, so instead of the the resettable fuse, it came with a fast blow fuse, but it's inside the handle, so not a quick change if it blows. The full power relay is in the handle, not down the other end of the cables, a bit strange, but as has been pointed out by those that know, it's not needed for the kind of cars/motors I'll be using it for. The club i race with runs on 10 volts, and down there the response is a bit soft even though I had the sensitivity turned all the way up, at 12 volts it was fine, I found a fix for this by shortening the trigger throw, which is a $8 option, and well worth the extra, and can be fitted to most brand controllers. One thing I really like on both the Truspeed controllers is the "traction control", it works without effecting the rest of the controller, unlike on the Difalco, which is that bad, I never used it much. I'm yet to try out the Coast/HO mode, which is for cars with lots of brakes. I used it at Friday night racing at Hallam, and got 3 wins from 3 starts, but I did the same last week with my Difalco, so I can't say one is better than the other.

I got the same problems with safari on the iPad, lucky I've got the iPhone with another provider. It's happening for me on one other forum aswell.

I assume you are talking about the MTII for that price? Was that in Normal, or Coast mode? I should have mine turn up sometime this week, as a replacement for my ageing Difalco, which will be relegated to a spare. Sports Racer, I've had someone tell me the same thing about the DS-3506 not delivering full power, another issue with them is the crappy design of the way the wires to the trigger are routed, they will fail sooner rather than later, maybe just turn it into a $150 night light with the pretty blue light?