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Everything posted by rosco01

  1. rosco01

    Coreless motors

    Yes Matt, I scratch built Brock's XU-1... thinking I'd have the only one in Oz... put an awful lot of work into it, including a built up open frame brass grille..... I was firmly of the belief that Scalextric - or someone, would have produced his first win at Bathurst - the 50th anniversary last October... but not, they didn't..... but have announced it this year.... I expect this model will be a sell-out, so if ever you wanted one - I'd suggest you reserve yours, folk. XY - yes, I have Moffat's XW and two XY's... but there is another one that I would like. I'd also like to see someone like Slot-It get into some of these classic Oz historic muscle cars. Scalextric (and we should be grateful) do a reasonable body and livery... but their chassis and running gear really is becoming belittling to the great models they are releasing.. If NSR did one of these models for us... we'd probably purchase an awful lot less Scalextric cars... Revo are another of my new favourites... I love the engineering in their chassis.... but, for speed and performance... the NSR models I've purchased are almost unbeatable... the Mosler probably being the fastest of all cars I have.. I have three of these, in differing liveries.. by golly, they are quick. Keep me in the loop with your coreless motor developments... I'm pretty convinced you won't be disappointed.... but, at that price - I think you'll be astounded.. frats, Rosco
  2. rosco01

    Coreless motors

    Forgot - what I can tell you Grant - is that these coreless motors are extremely quiet.... When swapped out from a "Sagami" can motor to one of these coreless ones - the loco runs an awful lot quieter.... yet produces more power/speed than the Sagami at the same power setting.. I am watching your progress with intense interest... as, I'm sure - are now many others.... frats, Rosco
  3. rosco01

    Coreless motors

    Oh wow - that's dirt cheap... might have to let my fellow railway modellers know about these. 20,000 rpms @ 12v...hmmm.. do they quote a torque? Of course, raising the final ratio (a lower end result rpm) would mean more torque... and I expect braking. However, I believe there would be prescious little braking that was mechanical... i.e. magnetic.... it would have to be introduced through electronic retardation... that's my take on it.. Yes, still alive and kicking... I go missing in big spells, as most of the forum is aware - sometimes for years.... Might be time for a return to slot cars.... I stopped at 100 cars.. but still have two on back-order... and of that 100, there are four white kits yet to be built. frats, Rosco
  4. rosco01

    Coreless motors

    In this next pic, we get some further possibilities... sound! I can only imagine what window this might open up for slot car purposes. The complete decoder (chip) which outputs power, lighting and sound - is shown in this pic. The speaker (if model railway hobbyists only knew).. is simply a mobile phone speaker - with enclosures (or baffles) to create bass... I can only ponder on what the sound of a V8 motor might be like as the model car blasts down a long straight at the rev limiter, or the screech of tyres under braking as it slows for a curve... there would be many more such sound projects to be added.. but, I expect you may appreciate - I doubt very much that gear changes would be possible.. With model railways, we incorporate "chuffs" to the speed of the motor - these are extremely accurate, in so far as the exhaust beat being exactly as the motion rods pass a certain point in the quadrant ...... all programmable and set... and all derived from the motor feedback to the decoder... Ok - 'nuff from me.... more food for thought. frats, Rosco
  5. rosco01

    Coreless motors

    Just a couple of pix... relevance to size of motor... This is the larger of the two coreless motors I have fitted to my locomotives. A brass "screw" drive is fitted to the motor shaft, which drives a corresponding brass gear on the axle. It would not require rocket-science to provide a spur crown arrangement for slot car purposes. You can see how small this motor is - by my thumb over the gearbox.. these little blighters punch out a lot of power for their size - but, some protection would have to be emplaced to prevent overload.... it would be a very expensive mishap to burn one of these out. In this application, the motor drives 8 coupled wheels - the weight of the locomotive would be somewhere in the vacinity of some 450 grams.... tractive effort from the motor will not cause wheelspin (torque lockup) until a considerable load (train on a gradient) is demanded.... for a slot car, I fully expect that the tyres would lose traction well before there was an issue with torque load... this of course, all depends on gearing - in terms of model railway, the reduction is quite high... but, with a scale speed of some 115 km/h at what would be the equivalent of 12v DC..... the rpms of the motor itself would be very high... As stated, a lot of work would need to be done to satisfy an acceptable gearing ratio for slot cars..
  6. rosco01

    Coreless motors

    Oops.... brain fade... coreless motors - no, I should have replied to brushless - apologies to the forum. I have fitted "coreless" motors to some of my model railway locomotives... these are extremely efficient motors. They put out a lot of power from a very small package. They run at high rpms requiring greater reductions in gearing to be speed accurate. Compared to the permanent magnet DC motors which were replaced with coreless... my guess would be that for a slightly smaller motor size - they produce perhaps three times the torque... now, that will have some people thinking - I'm sure. They are expensive - I think the last one I fitted to a K class loco (Victorian) cost me something around the $120 mark. My retailer was only able to supply me with two different motors - one slightly larger than the other. These do not require an ESC, as for a brushless AC motor... but do require a suitable controller and on-board chip to control the power. I believe, from what I have read - running these on pure DC is likely to cause permanent damage... they need something to limit amperage or will run hot. With the DCC system in model railways, power supplied to the track is AC... adjustable, in my case to around 17v..... from there, the decoder (expensive) sends commands and power to the locomotive - forward and reverse... momentum, braking... all sorts of things that you simply program into the decoder. It might be something to look at... but it would be a universal change to everyone who runs on a slot car track with a constant AC voltage supplied to it... I'm not sure how digital works on slot car tracks - I have never been involved with it, but have two cars which do have the chip in them - never used as such.... excuse my ignorance... I suppose, for all intents and purposes - there is commonality with the DCC system used in model railways (and coreless motors powered by a decoder) to that of digital slot cars.... so, these comments are probably relevant..? DCC in model railways is simply brilliant... some 25+ functions at hand.... it may be overkill for slot cars, but I'm certain there are some serious modellers who'd like indicators, brake lights, high/low beam headlights, saloon lighting and all sorts of other things that can be controlled... it's probably more suited to a modeller, rather than a racer... of course, this would demand a controller... these are also expensive... as is most model railway componentry... For slot car purposes, as I understand, control "signals" are sent through the slot car track - each hand controller is somehow connected to the chip in the car through the track.... what protocols are used.. not sure. With model railways, there are a number of DCC protocols... loco's have to be programmed so that they can run on differing systems... but, it's the controller itself that makes the connection.... For example, a "layout" may have some 99 or more (in fact, the number of which can be registered is something like 9,999) locomotives sitting on it... the controller (in my case) can run two locomotives at any one time - using two "throttles" ..... each loco is programmed into the controller... and will respond when selected. I can have two "trains" running at any time..... with up to four locomotives on each train... If we are to look at our slot car application - we'd need to be able to have four or six hand controllers.... one for each lane. I don't know what "programming" can be done within these hand controllers - with regard to what functions they offer... that's all beyond me. I hope this has given some food for thought... my suspicion is that the digital chip for slot cars has been developed specifically minded to bringing the humble DC resistance hand controller into the digital age... there are similarities, I'm sure... but it's probably more the functionality that differs... Regardless, coreless motors - for slot cars?... maybe they are coming, but they will need controllers to match them... If they are available - I can see a great market for ultra-small coreless motors for scale slot cars... will easily fit within the very narrow bodies of F1 and GP cars... etc. etc.... these little blighters are small - but have a considerable power/torque output.. Apologies for digressing - digital slot cars are beyond my comprehension, to any extent... frats, Rosco frats, Rosco
  7. rosco01

    Coreless motors

    Hi Grant, I've been into electric R/C aircraft for quite some time - coreless motors are extremely efficient and powerful, but it is my suspicion for 1/32 slot cars - the small motor size would not afford sufficient magnet power for braking... With r/c, we use an ESC to power the motor - there is also a brake function.... there are three leads from this ESC to the motor. I believe it would be necessary to incorporate an ESC for a coreless motor in a slot car - just how this could be controlled, I don't know... in my application, the ESC receives its command from a radio reciever... and some thing would need be emplaced between the esc and a digital hand controller... I have no suggestions for this, simply haven't given it any thought. As you are aware, the DC motors in our models have very strong and permanent magnets... coreless motors are entirely different, and are dependent on the ESC for both power and any braking... I'm quite surprised, in all the years that coreless motors have been in use (affording r/c flight the ability to both provide enough power with very light power/weight ratio) that someone in the slot car industry has not seized on developing this technology. Of course, there would be companies who would also seize on the opportunity to exploit any transition... new controllers, power supplies etc. etc... I furthe believe, that when the "digital chip" surfaced in slot cars - perhaps consideration was also given to coreless motors... and it is possibly here that they hit a brick wall.... either with technology, or response from the fraternity with regard to conversion... Again, coreless motors are extremely efficient - but their shape and size might also be an issue.... to get something that produces the same amount of power etc... for the small size of motor that could be fitted.... Watching this post with interest... frats, Rosco
  8. Great work, Matt..... 1/24th allows for a bit more detail in scale.. I bet this one looks great in running...? frats, Rosco
  9. Thanks Matt... I do things a little different to most. I like to pour a small film over the areas of the mould that I know will trap air... and pin prick them out... once that is set up... I pour the remainder in and then apply pressure.... watching the air expel. I have tried using a small brush to do much the same thing with a thin coating over the detail parts.. and that worked as well. But, Easy Cast goes off so darned fast... it's quite demanding. I agree with Phil.... Pinkysil is probably the perfect moulding medium for Easy Cast... I really like both... but I prefer to work with Pinkysill... I've been rewarded with some very intricate detail which has been faithfully reproduced by Easy Cast.... it just keeps giving.. Best thing about EasyCast - if you stuff it up, you know 10 minutes after the pour - and can repeat it.... I have also tried using a small syringe to push Easy Cast into Pinkysil... and that worked as well....... only for the fine detail stuff.. then a "body" pour to fill it out. Pretty much makes the syringe u/s after one shot... I've tried many chemicals to flush out Easy Cast.... but they usually attack the syringe plunger... acetone worked a few times for each syringe.... but with the fine brush method.. I find I don't use syringes very often of late.... frats, Rosco
  10. Great work, Matt.... you've created something which cannot be purchased. I prefer to use EasyCast for my castings.... it might be something you may wish to look at. I use a pressure chamber to expel air - as opposed to a vacuum one.. which tends to make the stuff froth up and aerate. Working time is only a couple of minutes, that's the downside with it. But it works beautifully with files and fine wet/dry.... takes a primer readily and also Tamiya putty.... it has flex, but will return to "memory".... Great work. frats, Rosco
  11. Great write up, Vinno...... I have two of these old Scalextric Sierra's..... given me some thoughts. frats, Rosco
  12. Nice write up, Slotz. I converted many of my Slot-It GT40's to the full suspension set up. I took the Alan Manz red/gold stripe car to Stubbo to show him using his track.... he had a stock identical car, that had been tuned.... and sadly, my suspension conversion car (him driving both) couldn't get near his times.... that was the last time I did a suspension conversion. However, I might make mention here - Stubbo's track is a routed wooden track which has been very well made.... I run on a number of my own Scalextric layouts that vary depending on whim...... and the suspension GT40's return much faster times... I guess, what I'm saying is that for a routed track - a firm rear with just a little float probably is what I would suggest... but, for a track with uneven or imperfections - suspension models give me the impression they keep track/tyre contact beyond that of models not fitted with it. frats, Rosco
  13. rosco01

    Cheap Tricks

    Looks good, I did exactly the same thing when I first entered the Tasman Cup proxy series - you won't regret it. The only thing I might suggest is NOT to solder the end of the leads. Whenever you solder a lead, the weakest point is just behind the solder.... I had one break off - and it was exactly there where it broke... since then, I simply twist the lead and use the M2 to hold it firmly nipped up against the braid - no failures since. frats, Rosco
  14. Hmmmmm - I just might have to order one of those - I have a collection of Allan Moffat and Peter Brock cars... this one sort of fits in - with Moffat in a Holden, and I have Brock in a Ford... Who'd have "thunk"... back in the day. frats, Rosco
  15. Nice work, MtP...... suspension? frats, Rosco
  16. I'm pretty much in the same boat this year, Terry - committments that have taken priority will sadly prevent me from entering the Tasman Cup proxy for a little while... However, my entries in the past have all be successfully accomplished without either a home track or access to someone else's..... I was able to send my entries off without the model ever moving any further than the length of a standard "D" size Scalextric piece of track. The only occasion this differed, was at my debut into the TC... when Stubbo was kind enough to invite me to test run my first model on his track... since then, it's been a case of doing my best setting a model up on both a set-up plate and one D length of track..... for the model not to bring shame itself and finish the series was more than enough satisfaction... thus far, I have had great success.... So, don't sell yourself short in the belief that it is essential to have access to a track for entry purposes - if you are satisfied that the model should perform adequately, there isn't really any practical reason that it can't be entered..... I suppose, I'm a bit hypocritical in this in that I probably have a model I can enter - but at present, I simply cannot bring one up to a level that I would be comfortable with in sending it off....... and cause concern to those who it may be forced to tolerate it.... frats, Rosco
  17. Nicely done, Terry..... will look great amongst the flock of competitors, or should I say - even greater.... frats, Rosco
  18. Thanks Tony, yes, I guess I'm the proud owner of yet more spare parts..... maybe they were part of the casting fret that shared common parts in another model.... I'm stumped with where two of them go - scoured the drawings you gave me the link for and simply couldn't see anything that looked like them. Main thing is, all the parts which were shown were in my kit..... so, I guess I really have nothig to grumble about - other than confusion. frats, Rosco
  19. Thanks Tony, very helpful... however, there are two parts which look like they are some form of internal baffle which goes inside the side intakes.... or something similar. They are "S" curved and have holes/tangs/tabs/pins which are definitely meant to fit somewhere in the body - I have searched and searched, but cannot locate where they should be fitted... Secondly, where did you get the link from?... I have never found any of the Slot-It white kit diagrams for assembly... managed to get the model finished, but this one has me stumped.... much appreciated for you kind help, frats, Rosco
  20. Hi folk, I bought a Slot It Lola B12/80 white kit for my son - he had the option of me making up any car he wanted... and he chose this one.... grrrrrr Great looking model, and from what I have read - it performs well.... but - I'm in strife with assembling the body. There are parts that I have stretched my brain trying to work out where they fit or the orientation of them... the major piece are easy, but there are some which I have no idea about... If anyone has assembled one of these kits - you have my ears... and greatest attention. frats, Rosco
  21. Looks schmick, Chris - your eye for attention to detail is amazing... and your ability to replicate it - even more so. frats, Rosco
  22. You certainly have, Terry.... can't wait to see the finished model... and it running in the series. frats, Rosco
  23. nice work, Terry...... now for the nuts and bolts.... frats, Rosco
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