Ricardo40

Hi Pavel, I drop in and out of the hobby and am newly back from a six year absence, I only know of 3 commercial tracks in Sydney: Arncliffe, Penrith and Hornsby. There was a track that used to be at SSME Luddenham, not sure what happened to that. I use to race my 1/24th 16D but returning now everything has gone 1/32nd. I have two Slot.It cars (McLaren F1 GTR, Jaguar XJR6) and just purchased a Revo Dodge Viper from Eddie @ Arncliffe, can't wait to test it out. I hoping to get back into it and make it a semi-regular hobby Richard

Garry has sent me the build instructions, can anyone tell me how the Lexan body is attached?

Yes Sticks, that's the car I have. I'm look for the instructions on how to build that and attach the lexan body.

Sorry to reply to an old thread, I found an old Slotworx SX132-F while cleaning my garage. Can someone help me with the instructions, I can't find them online. Is this type of car still raced? https://imgur.com/a/ENpo9d0 Ric

Decals ordered, thanks for the advice.

OK .... I pull the trigger and purchased the chassis and kit (Ford) from Armchair on the weekend, I'm new to all and have no experience at modding or building slot cars. I did check out the decals guy, am I right to assume 2014 decals work on this shells as well? I guess I email him the order and ask for the main colour to be left off. Why don't you use polycarbonate paints? Does it eat the decals? Doesn't the water based paint chip of the shell on impact? Ric

OK ..... I have got my ARC ONE set and been having a blast but the controls are rubbish, I ordered from the UK a C8217 and realize after thinking about it that diodes in the powerbase are bridge rectifiers (one for each controller I believe) so in DC only two of the four diodes are used. Bridge rectifier are used to convert AC to DC but can be used for a polarity check on a DC input (about a 1.2V voltage drop). I will feed each input so I don't overload the current on one. So I will make a small box for each Parma controller to go from a mains plug to a 1/8 jack, will probably fit a 3 amp fuse in line as well. Has anyone made one of these or have some advice? Ric

Thanks Cam, I did notice the pre-order today. plus the discounted price to buy both at the same time. Is there an instruction of attaching the shell? Does the guy that produces the decals do custom decals, I work for Toyo & Nitto Tyres and would be able to get hold of the artwork. Would love to do one Toyo and one Nitto. Ric

Hi, I'm pretty new to this but the cars are definitely very cool. A couple of questions; There are two chassis, one plastic and one metal, does it make a difference which one you use? Is there a group using these in Sydney as it would be great to check them out. How do I go about buying the parts I need to start? Ric

I'm located at Merrylands, Sydney. I've decided to go small into Scalextric and maybe this time next year think about a routed track. I need to learn a lot more.

Thanks for the replies, just checking a little further. The power-base in an analogue set (C8217) accepts two AC power packs and rectifies to a DC current? I believe that plugging a DC supply will still work but will drop the voltage (0.9V). That is still good because my PS is variable (12V -18V) so I can just set to 1V above what I need. So will I need a plug the is centre positive or negative? On the controller side I guess I just need to know which pins (wire colour) goes to where on the phono plug? Hope I made sense. Also I believe that 30 amps just means I have plenty of current in reserve, it's Voltage that dictates current draw.

Hi All, Well I'm almost 50 and building a shed out the back, the shed is for my to set up a DCC HO Railway (British Steam) I've always wanted to do and to start gaming again. While rumbling thru some stuff I came across an old 1/24 flexi car and then I started thing about a digital slot car setup. To get around some zoning issue the shed is only going to be 5m x 4m so room is at a premium. I would really love to start with an analogue routed 2 lane track 100mm spacing for 1/32. I'm thing 12' x 6' would probably be the minimum size for a decent experience. But before going down that track I'm thinking of just getting a Scalextric F1 App Race Control set, set it up on a table tennis table and see how it goes. The thought of dropping 1K on a plastic track digital set doesn't appeal and I will need to think of a solution pack up gaming table and slot track then the other is not in use. Any general advice and pitfalls to avoid would be appreciated. Ric

Thanks ZeGas, the link was informative. I didn't realize that the power into the power-base was AC. So I guess making my own power track with my power supply might be the go. Is there any good after-market controllers that slot right in? Maybe a wireless solution that can connect?

Hi All, I'm looking to getting back into playing around with home slot cars. I'm going to get the scalextric F1 app racer set at Christmas, but I understand the controllers are weak. I've read you can remove the middle plug inside the ARC ONE and put in a normal power track (i plan to buy a cheap analogue set to get extra track and the power track) to control the cars with a different controller. Could some please explain to me how to do the following: I have two Parma Plus controllers with 25 ohm resistors, the controllers are filled with the normal three pin Oz plug. I have a 30 amp supply I use for charging batteries I believe would be excellent for this; http://www.skyrc.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=167 I would like to keep the plug on the Parma controller so I can use them at commercial tracks. So I'm guess I need 1/8 stereo plugs and male power plugs and some red, white and black cable. All I need to understand is how to wire everything up. Any help is appreciated. Ric

I work for a rubber mixing company ..... let me know what you want compound wise and I'll talk to the chemists