Kevan

I use an axle held in a vice then an old spur gear slid down with enough axle sticking up for a wheel to go on and slowly rotate the wheel as I stick a piece of 1mm piano wire down the gap to let the superglue reach the wheel flange.

I'd put some tape over the slot in the top of the motor to keep all that crud out of the motor.

Not rule bending, rule abiding

I've enjoyed following this and the videos so far.

Love it, XK120 is probably my favourite car, so versatile, competed in everything and won most...and that's a very unusual colour.

I never know what I'm going to buy but it's certainly not new releases, I buy 2nd hand all the time and usually something that's grabbed my attention or for an upcoming proxy. Currently shopping for a Scaley Aston Martin DBR9 but refuse to spend new prices! Recently bought a 1/43 Carrera Go Ferrari GT2 for a tenner, which is the only 1/43 car I own, with the intention to see what I can do to make it raceable. Also recently bought a Scaley Corvette L88 for 8 quid and a Scaley Astra V8 for 12 quid...future Rally car and Standard class Saloon racer.

Empirical tuning is the only way you'll find out how much is enough for you, some don't like any ballast, some like loads, each to their own, neither is wrong. Old timers always said keep adding weight until your lap times get worse. I prefer a heavy car and sensible motor power, I know other racers who like flyweight cars with 45k motors but don't go much quicker round the track...often slower in fact.

FB might be great for reaching people but totally useless for newbies trying to learn anything from the past. You can find really useful and enlightening posts on a forum years, even decades in the future, it'll still be there as long as the forum lives. With FB you're forever answering the same questions all the time because: there's no organised sections or history typical FB hobby newbies don't seem to know there's a thing called google that you can type questions in and you'll get pages of appropriate links to find your answers ...on FB you can click 'go back' once and never find the post you were reading, for me I created a couple of FB pages to keep links and photos and post club race reports as most of our club members aren't on any of the forums That last point is probably important 'most of our club members aren't on any of the forums' I presume that's probably common throughout most hobbies with years of forum data to trawl through. If FB was more organised like a forum I think it would help many hobbies tremendously, I thought this back in 2014 when I closed an RC Drift forum I was running for 10 years...if only FB could be set up like this

MG Jaguar E-type B-GT ...or is that a 'Q plater' cut'n'shut

Funny you should mention lithium, I bought a bottle of bicycle chain lube for bearings, it has the consistency of washing up liquid and a tiny bit goes a long way on bearings. One day I tried it on a pair of rubber tyres, it takes 10-15 minutes but works bl**dy great. Here's a pic of the bottle (which should last years) ...it has lithium in the ingredients

Same as PG above, unglued tyres promote bad handling in bends as the rubber lifts off the wheel. Glued and trued front and rear every time without fail. I prefer hard coated fronts to reduce front end grab. On a RWD car the more highly polished the tyres the more they grip, it gets tedious polishing tyres so you have to be keen. The best rubber tyres not made any more are pre-Evo NSR Ultras, easy to true, easy to race prep, polish great...sadly there isn't a tyre of it's equal on the market now. Not tried silicones as our club banned them because they strip the track clean meaning the rubber shod cars have dramatically reduced grip... but it makes great sence to use them as there's no shortage and they last years!..plus grip on a smooth clean surface is only bettered by foams and goop.

and they ball-up least of all their tyres and once polished give fantastic grip

Scalextric or SCX are your choices for a Mini whether that's an original Mini or a Mini Clubman I love my Mini's in various guises and wouldn't even consider a modern BMW blob with a Mini badge

and aren't they just 'orrid!

We race similar, mainly 3 mins but sometimes longer. Standard Revo 30s are my favourite but have recently tried the new g25's which suffer the same problems as all the other manufacturers g25's

Those fronts need truing

I've yet to see a set of Revo tyres that don't start to ball-up under hard racing conditions (on a wood track)

I like standard TS 002R tyres, very similar to original NSR Supergrips. I've acquired a pack of TYR005R tyres that are designed for Carrera track but I'll be driving on a wood track. They're not easy to true, similar to NSR Extremes to grind on a hudy but trued easier on a flat plate type truer. I'm hoping they're going to perform like original NSR Ultras.

Useful...so copied here too

I doubt it, DTM's are typically 60-61mm wide, I'd expect the 510 to be more like 50-52mm, i.e. a narrow car

Some nice observations that remind me of my own initial venture into Revo-world That same motor is fitted to all the Revos, even the 64mm wide GT2's with 12mm wide tyres, it's more than enough for a skinny Escort on 9mm wide tyres. I put a 10T pinion on mine as the stock gearing is way too low, brakes are ridiculously harsh, the 10T enables smoother acceleration and control over braking whilst upping the available top speed. I sleeved the rear bearings to allow 1/32" axles and therefore a wide range of (alloy) spurs and NSR wheels I experimented with body mounts front and rear on the centreline (required drilling the chassis) but ended up using the original two front ones and the new rear one I flipped the brass top hats and put small silicone O-rings in the hole, chassis flex is smoother and the car runs quieter Stock tyres are surprisingly good as long as you keep them away from oil as Revo tyres ball-up for fun once oiled As with all Revos, guide rotation is badly restricted and you'll eventually break a guide...I ground a bit of extra clearance to allow the guide to rotate more...no more broken guides The car was great to drive with this setup but lacked that last bit of confidence inspiring handling...until I added some lead pieces under the side sills between the screws and a thin piece under the chassis between the guide and motor still leaving over 1mm of ground clearance In it's class (Small Sports/Saloons max width across tyres 54mm, 9mm wide tyres) there is nothing else on the market anywhere near these Group 2 cars...that is until SlotIt releases the Datsun 510 then it'll be GAME ON!

Very

IL chassis...

A good review of a nice looking car but the rear axle is too far forwards by about 1mm

Yes of course you're right, I just checked the finals sheets but there's no A, B, C etc just the 6 drivers.