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A Scalextric MkII Jag set up for wood track


SlotsNZ

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Have always loved these, and so had to grab one to tune, plus an Inspector Morse for a shelf queen.

they are very narrow, so their race potential is a little less than nil, but I’ve tweaked this one as best I can.

Motor swapped for an SRC 16k, geared 10:25 with oilites replacing the original bushes. Slot.it axle and crown.

Front wheels are original, but replaced the axle with a Slot.it one and trued up the tyres, slightly reducing O.D.

I trimmed off the protruding axle mount plastic, out in 0.5mm shims for free rotation, so the fronts sit slightly inside the body - so it can rock.

Turned down the rear hubs to make inserts. At bare minimum meat left outside the spokes, I was able to fit them inside Scaleauto 16.2x8.5 bossless wheels, which I have fitted with Slot.it 1171 N22 tyres, glued and trued. End result is that with thin spacers I can get these inside the rear mudguards. 
Added about 5 grams weight above the original magnet, and around 9 grams split either side of chassis forward of the motor. I kept the lights 

Guide is Slotting Plus wood guide with thin braid. Front tyres touch the track, and guide is full depth.

it looks completely stock at first glance, but is fractionally lower.

It won’t beat the low sports cars, but runs smooth, with a little bit of controllable slide. It is probably on a par with a tuned Ninco XK120 Jag now. A bit tippy, but can be driven predictably at a reasonable pace 

 

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Edited by SlotsNZ

Custodian of many used screws (quite a few loose :rolleyes:)  * Recovering Lapsed Slot Addict :ph34r:  *   Companion of other delusional slot addicts :lol: *  Total kidder

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Posted (edited)

Challenge accepted :lol:

Managed to drop the front about 1.5mm by opening up the axle supports and sleeving the axle. It has improved cornering speeds a little.
Can’t really take the back any lower unless I narrow the track further, which would be self defeating for drive stability.

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Edited by SlotsNZ
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Custodian of many used screws (quite a few loose :rolleyes:)  * Recovering Lapsed Slot Addict :ph34r:  *   Companion of other delusional slot addicts :lol: *  Total kidder

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21 minutes ago, Wobble said:

Have you cut the center out of the glass house up top? I'm sure the glass on these is over 1.0mm thick and if I recall correctly is solid all the way through.

Yes, it is full, and it is over 1mm thick.
I thought about it, but try as I might, I couldn’t get the glass to come loose - was afraid it would break. (And I am not steady enough to try and cut it in situ with a rotating dremel blade.)

And as I at least want it to be legal for our pre-65 class, a Lexan replacement window set isn’t an option. - It could never be a winner, but can get some laps.

Custodian of many used screws (quite a few loose :rolleyes:)  * Recovering Lapsed Slot Addict :ph34r:  *   Companion of other delusional slot addicts :lol: *  Total kidder

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2 hours ago, SlotsNZ said:

Yes, it is full, and it is over 1mm thick.
I thought about it, but try as I might, I couldn’t get the glass to come loose - was afraid it would break. (And I am not steady enough to try and cut it in situ with a rotating dremel blade.)

I use a round dremel 'bur' to grind out the roof glass area.  Take your time and hold your hand on the outside to feel if it is getting too hot.  like the one at right hand end of pic

image.png.7c2f39b80923bbff258b6e39a51a37a2.png

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I got the glass out, don't remember how, I think patience had something to do with it, but then, probably not, maybe just technique instead. A cut-off disk in a Dremel sorted it real quick, probably quicker than extracting the glass.

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