Fly GT40 for classics racing

[SlotsNZ]

We have a stock chassis/body Fly Classics class at club. Stock motor or replacement 18k S-Can from a few specific makers.
Free axles, bushes, alloy wheels, tyres, guide and wires allowed. 

I had three cars in this class for own use or as loaners, but they were all about 10 years old, and repaired so many times … (read as knackered)   The majority of the cars raced are Porsche 908 and 917 in various iterations, and a few Chevrons.
So I thought I’d try something including a GT40.

Upon unboxing, I discover it has a weird chassis to body fitting method - four screws into the underpan of the interior. I don’t think this will prove very durable due to the strain from crashes on the mounts of the interior to the main body; and the chassis is more floppy than a licorice strap,  but decided to knock it up anyway.
The result is not uber fast, probably about 2/10ths a lap slower than the quickest 908 Flunders in club, but is easy to drive, and gives me something a little different to play with.

- Swapped motor for Pioneer 18k to get a smooth shaft and fit a 13 tooth 7.5mm NSR pinion, partnered with a Slot.it 35t 18mm spur as these FLY use the same motor shaft to axle shaft spacing as Scalextric (6.5mm pinion and 19mm spur) with Slot.it axle bushes and a Sloting Plus axle.
I “tipped” the spur gear down to about 16mm O.D. as I used small ScaleAuto 14.8mm x 8mm lightweight wheels and Slot.it 1207 N22 rear tyres for a low profile ride

Fronts are ScaleAuto 14.5mm x 8mm nylon wheels and Slot.it PT19 15mm x 8mm zero grips. 
Braced the floppy chassis lengthways to the motor mounts with some fine brass rod (about 1mm diameter) Tossed in a wood guide and about 10gms lead mid chassis.

Bit of a mongrel, but it seems to work

Edited December 10, 2024 by SlotsNZ

[Chrisguyw]

Nicely done Mark !!!,...........if your rules permit, the following simple mod. will help handling, and more importantly, eliminate broken guide blades/guide post holes.

As Fly cars were equipped with magnets (little slip angles required) there was apparently little thought (or need) for a good amount of guide rotation designed into the chassis plate, which. sans magnets, resulted in "tank slappers" when the guide hit its stops,....this often resulted in either a broken guide blade, or worse, a broken guide post hole,..........luckily, there is a very easy/quick remedy.

This pic. is of a stock Fly chassis plate, showing insufficient guide rotation

 

Remove the guide, mark where shown, and remove this material with a dremel, file scalpel etc.

One side done........

The increase guide rotation will eliminate guide/chassis plate breaks,.........I have done this to tons of Fly cars over the years for club members/customers without issues,..........eliminating the "tank slappers" also makes the car much nicer/quicker to drive

 

 

Cheers

Chris Walker

[Shaynus]

Good info, thank you Chris