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Hi all 99% of my "stable" have s can motors. 1 LMP and a Fly Capri were the exceptions. Awhile back I noticed that the Capri was braking violently and even winding brakes almost off made no difference. We folded the Fly Capri class into our Group 5 class so I just stopped using it. It's been sitting in the to do pile to get a new EVO 6 motor. I've just built a new project car and used a flat-6 long can - and it has exactly the same behavior. Swapping out the flat 6 for an avantslot long can made zero difference either. & re checking my LMP shows that has the same issue S -can motors give a good range of braking so I just am a bit lost? I have an older Difalco controller from 2008 and I wondered if anyone is aware of issues with these and long cans? I can't see why there'd be a difference but there is. Appreciate any thoughts.. Cheers Pat

First of all a bit thanks to all the guys and girls here. A great forum site. We have bitten the bullet and decided to build a routed track to be used by the family. That was the easy decision. Now to get things started... I would be interested in anyone’s comments on the track design I have come up with. Space constraints mean we are restricted to an L design 3.5 mts by 4.0 mts. I have bought two sheets of MDF (3600mm x 1200mm x 12mm) and after 500mm to be used for the bridge crossover I have this initial design below. Initially the corners were all going to be nice an symmetric however after reading “Roath”s post and seeing the results he has with a flexible strip I’m fairly sure I will be going down this path now. The information posted with Roath has been invaluable. Some specific queries: With the design I intend to begin elevating up after turn 4 rising as far as possible until turn 6 and then bring it down to the flat around turn 2. Does this sound ok? Adding S’s between turns 2 and 3. Do these add to the racing experience or do they just wobble the cars a bit heading into the curve strait towards 4? Is it better to make them more pronounced or keep them smooth (or vary each of them )? If I were to add a squeeze were would be the best place to put it? Do they really add to the racing or just cause general hassles? Thanks for anything you may be able to pass on. Initial Design

Hi guys, Firstly, wanted to say how awesome it is to find a dedicated Aussie forum for something like this - makes it seems more... welcoming? I'm in the Eastern Suburbs of Melbourne, and I wanna build a track. I have two kids and played with slots when I was a kid and felt it high time to get back into it and give them something worthwhile to play with. I am the kind of person however that loves a project and would find it gut-wrenching to simply go and buy pieces to click together from a shop. So, I am designing a routered track and have been reading and reading and reading up on all the stuff I need to know but still have a few questions (I'm sure I will have many more and the project progresses) which would be amazing to have help with. First up, scale racers and choices and track spacing: Basically I am looking at designing a track for 1/32 cars. I like the idea of getting hold of some nice Pioneer cars to race and figure 1/32 would be the most accommodating size to start at. Now the space I am trying to design two is pretty large, but I don't want to undertake something EPIC on the first go, so I am looking at a board size of 2600mm x 1800mm (sound ok?) with a split level track. I want to make a 2 or 3 lane track (open to suggestions) but a the moment my main issue is trying to work out HOW THE HELL to space the track out correctly, as everything I read seems to contradict itself. After 4 hours of reading tonight I think 105mm seems to be the go on track spacing? with 115mm gutters? I would really like to router this myself, but to the same effect I have been reading people talking about routing quotes as little as $200 for CAD files provided... which just seems too good to be true? Does anyone have a good contact of a place in Melbourne/Eastern Suburbs that is good for this kind of job? Also in my design I am having trouble with what my minimum corner radius should be? As I havent actually raced for so long I have no clue on what is functional and what is not, so would just need to be told what to stick to... This seems to cover my main questions so far, I'd really appreciate any input people have for a newcomer and hopefully longtime enthusiast. Cheers, Brent