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Lockdown Projects.


slotmadmac

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I've been a bit bussy this past week & a half using the lock down as an excuse to build my new slot track.

The bride & I moved house last October & with the downsizing my old track did not fit so sold it off to a mate,made round to go round :D

After many hundreds of track designs viewed I settled on a track from Auckland NZ,Henderson Minature Motor Racing Club with a few changes to fit my garage.

It will be a 3 laner with 100mm lane spacing MDF & painted in Semi Gloss Paving Paint,hopefully it will suit 1/24 as well as 1/32nd that will be very helpful in setting up my Proxy cars in the future.

With my old age catching up with me this will probable be my last track build before I head off to Boot Hill :D.

I'm enjoying the build as I like to use my hands to create things & can't wait to get it up & running to tune & test my car builds.

here's some pics so far,

HMMRC-track1.jpghow much rest between workouts

The HMMRC track

20200409-132158.jpg

New track

DSCN2137.jpg

Old Tack with the Grand kids having some fun.

I'll update as the build progresses.

Cheers Jimmy :D

To finsh first,first you gotta finish

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That's a great looking track Jimmy - a good mix of technical and flow

 

The P4 I worked on for a mate was bugging me so I revisited it. I tried new tyres on the plastic rims but the car wouldn't run silky as I like so I went to alloys. Problem solved. I'll leave it to the car owner to get the inserts out from the old wheels.

 

Oz24C2kl.jpg

Podiums are for short people.

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Hi Mac and all

 

Just a copy of a couple of photos so you know I am not sitting on my backside or talking through a hole in my head.

 

First three slot car projects as follows:

 

1. Ford Capri Group 5 - originally built with a home-made chassis and raced in a couple of NZ proxy events a few years back. Is still being raced locally in Group 5 Saloon class. Body was a white kit with paint by me and Sunoco decals by Tassie Phil. Unfortunately I did not do a very good job of clear coat so decals are slowly getting rubbed off. See photo for details. Chassis was later up-graded to proprietary Sideways chassis but with original Slot-it pod. Motor Slot-it 25000 Flat 6. Phil made some spare decals so I am hoping to re-decorate and might even try a motor/motor mount up-grade (in-line to AW with a more powerful motor) although current Flat 6 provides nice smooth power. a

 

2. Chassis for my Brabham BT54 made from modified Slot-it Ford GT chassis combined with Policar GP front chassis, modified Slot-it pod from above Group 5 and original Slot-it Flat 6 motor and home made front axle and non-working front suspension. Complete except for power leads and pick-ups. Have been mucking about with balsa body for several years but now hoping to complete shortly. Again decals have been provided by Tassie Phil.

 

3. Scalextric Maserati MC12. This was one of the cars with floating chassis pan but modification for our Open GT class was never completed. Have now rescued body and am marrying to a NSR Mosler chassis still for our Open GT class. Chassis modifications have been completed and revised body mounts ready for gluing to chassis. Will be fitted with NSR triangular pod and powerful FC 130 motor. Using original Scaly front wheels and axle but with 17.3mm ali rear wheels and original wheels turner down for inserts. It may not be as quick as those pesky Moslers but it sure is fun trying.

 

Second a two lane Scaly track I am making for one of our new members using bits of my old Scaly track now that I have made a 3 lane wood track. Cut from16mm 8 x 4 MDF packing sheet. Just putting final touches/ borders so an up-dated photo soon. Will run initially via Scaly power supply and controllers but will be fitted with jug plug inlets so it can be used with normal RTR controllers and possibly up-graded power supply. Like a lot of UK Scaly tracks however I am going to try painting track surface and adding copper tape to improve running quality.

 

Regards Chas Le Breton (charlesx) (PS. Photos around wrong way)

 

Ians-track.jpg

 

Lockdown-projects.jpg

Edited by charlesx
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Hi all.

 

Converting plastic wheels to inserts - probably obvious to you bright b-------s out there but previously I have turned down whole hub then cut off insert when converting Scaly and other wheels into inserts.

 

In the case of my Maserati MC12 however I broke hub out when trying to remove wheels so needed a new approach. I had to first glue the hub back in. Normally I would have removed contrate and installed spur gear as I was turning car into a sidewinder and I like to use the original axle assembly wherever possible. Removed wheel would then be pushed or if necessary glued back on. I find latter is not normally a problem with Scaly and would be even easier where axle not splined (e.g. SCX).

 

In this case I just cut off the outside of hub with spokes and brake disk intact and have just done the same to the other wheel. Where the wheel is still attached I can then put in my drill as I did with whole hub and sanded to final size required. The other one will probably need to be re-sized to fit by hand. Easy peasy. In this case because hubs were so big I may have to take right down to spokes to fit 17.3mm ali wheels but more on that later. See photo.

 

Regards Chas Le Breton

 

Wheels-to-inserts.jpg

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Hi all.

 

Body posts - Another stage in the build process. Nothing new here but as explained in another thread there are a number of ways to install body posts.

 

The easy way out of course is to use a body with them already moulded in. With many resin, 3D, altered and carved bodies however new posts or re-positioned posts are required. Where re-positioned it may be possible to just glue back in new position. I attach a photo of some of the methods I have used in past and cheaper methods I now use. I am always looking for a cheaper or easier method.

 

The car to the left of the photo uses part of a ballpoint pen barrel with a brass insert glued in the top. The beauty of the pen barrel is it is quick thick and therefore very strong once installed. See a couple of different brass inserts that are available for the aforementioned method. With the smaller variety you will probably need to use a narrower tube but this can

be built of multiple sections.

 

With my Brabham BT54 and my Maserati MC12 however I have used or am using my latest technique with commercial plastic tube. This utilises a thinner tube that a small screw can be screwed into then a thicker tube for the main barrel of the post. Alternatively a brass or ali tube could be used by the latter. See the photo for details.

 

An important step with whatever method you use is to section the bottom so the glue or resin has the maximum chance to adhere to the post.

 

If post turns out to be a little long you can grind down to the desired height. Alternatively if a little short you can space out with washers.

 

I hope this is of some interest. If installed correctly these posts are at least as strong as moulded-in posts.

 

Regards Chas Le Breton (charlesx)

 

Body-posts.jpg

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All these (I'm sure) "old tricks" are great ideas for newbies like myself, so please keep them coming. I don't think I would have ever thought of using a biro for a post.

Any info on the (threaded?) brass inserts would be of interest, or are they just cut down brass tube?

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Hi Shaynus.

 

You can use basically any bit of tube available. Popsicle sticks are another cheap option I have used in past.

 

The original brass inserts I bought were from Dart Hobbies in Canada but the Slot Car Centre in USA or Canada have a good range including complete kits - brass insert plus brass tube.

 

Some of your local retailers may stock some too so support them if you can.

 

These days I go for the cheaper options but these may be better for your own cars. I like to use the brass inserts in proxy cars that are being sent overseas. Have never had a problem with them. I had a couple of examples in the photo I posted.

 

The plastic variety however are usually fine and probably no less durable than the ones that come moulded into most RTR cars.

 

Regards Chas Le Breton (charlesx)

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Hi all.

 

All small jobs but collectively they represent several hours of lockdown exercise.

 

1. Brabham BT54 chassis - glued in new scrub screw mounts for front axle. The original Policar ones for the bottom of axle were mounted out board so were cut off when building the new chassis. If you can see I have glued in two small sections of plastic tube. Once drilled out slightly they will be perfect for insertion of bottom scrub screws. These were very fiddly..

2. Two Scaly Maserati MC12 plastic hubs reduced to wheel inserts.

3. Two Slot-it Porsche chassis with three replaced or fixed broken front axle mounts.

4. Sideways Lambo with inserts added. Problem was while front ones just slipped in nicely I should have perhaps loose fitted rear ones first. I may have got wrong but no way would rear ones go in even after using a vice. Has anybody else had this problem. Slot-it and NSR ones are always a piece of cake. I could not get back out so had to resort to removing rim, sanding flush with outside of wheel and painting outside of ali wheel black to match. If anybody knows what I did wrong please do not hesitate to give me a lesson. Have not shown before but hope you like my paint job and decals. You may also note I re-mounted the spoiler as I thought it would get broken too easily. Not prototypical but this is slot car racing. As with many of us spoilers are the bane of my life.

 

Hope this is of some interest. Regards Chas Le Breton (charlesx)

 

Small-job-1.jpg

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Can't compete with Mac for output but this is my next project.

Can you guess the car and livery - no help from Slotsnz!

 

20200412_082154.jpg?dl=0

 

20200412_082259.jpg?dl=0

 

And this is my other project - MRRC Corvette.

Not an exact replica - bonnet and rear split window are different to to the real thing but whose going to notice on the track!

 

20200412_113139.jpg?dl=0

Orakei Racer

 

Slow is smooth, smooth is fast!

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Nice looking cars!

Guessing a Merc 190E, in maybe Malboro colours??

 

Too easy - Marlboro scheme is simple to do and also very recognizable.

Decided to continue my gold theme from last year's NZ Slotit DTM series.

 

These are pre-final clear coat to seal the decals.

The decals took alot longer to do as I didn't have a exact DTM livery to follow so copied bits from existing Merc liveries and from what I could find in my spare decal sheets.

When I finished, I kept thinking looks a lot like a Mitshu Evo IV Rallyart!

 

20200419_101127.jpg?dl=0

 

20200419_101556.jpg?dl=0

 

20200419_101502.jpg?dl=0

Orakei Racer

 

Slow is smooth, smooth is fast!

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That is beautiful

Cheers Grant

.image.gif.0093c687aaf0960e48c144ffdd8b26ca.gif

2025 - Mad Man Motoring (Triple M) Proxy - Group 5 - 1:32 & 1:43

https://auslot.com/forums/index.php?/topic/37451-2025-mad-man-motoring-triple-m-proxy-group-5-132-143/

__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

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Thanks Orakei Racer.

 

Great job. Not sure why you say body not right. Earlier cars had split rear window. See you have Sunoco decal. Just re-doing my Sunoco Ford Capri Group 5 ones. You may remember car from Group 5 proxy a few years back. It goes much better these days but have just converted to AW. Has always been in-line. Hope things are OK in Big Smoke. Give my regards to other slotties when you get chance. Regards Mike. Chas Le Breton (charlesx)

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Hi Shaynus.

 

Attach photo of my Maserati MC12 with body posts installed. May add another coat of resin around base of posts to further strengthen although they look good. Got my resin mixing right again too as I had several mixes that did not set correctly. Think I was not allowing mixture/hardener to react properly before using.

 

Regards Chas Le Breton (charlesx)

 

Maserati-body-posts.jpg

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Finally finished the Corvette. Have to wait awhile to road test it, likely the chassis will need some weight.

Body is a bit heavy with the clip in rear body post attachment so COG could be a bit high.

Could drop the front down a bit more by trimming the body post but will road test it first.

 

20200421_163847.jpg?dl=0

  • Upvote 2

Orakei Racer

 

Slow is smooth, smooth is fast!

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Nice Mike. I also like your dard background.

g

 

Thanks G - it's just sheet of Black card. Just trying to reduce natural light glare so get a sharper pic but seem to end up in Night mode.

Should get some Photography tips from you!

Orakei Racer

 

Slow is smooth, smooth is fast!

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Hi Orakei Racer and all.

 

1. Great job on Corvette Mike. Looks fantastic. Hope it goes well but at least you have some up-grade options. Has this car got the original Sebring or similar MRRC chassis and motor? Sounds like you no longer have a track at home. I have just built my first home wood track so am enjoying that. Not quite finished yet but running. Too many other projects.

 

2. My current project (one of many) is a Scaly Camaro that was originally set up as a magnet car for NINCO track meeting in Wellington a couple of years ago. Car was pretty much standard as required by rules but was a poor performer. Motor could not handle standard magnet as NINCO track rail higher than Scaly. Had completed a couple of minor modifications more recently for home use (front tyres and Slot-it guide) but decided to up-grade to NZSCA Nationals Muscle Car standard or at least in that direction. Still not far from standard but has up-graded tyres - BRM on back, 11gms of lead and Munter interior/window kit. Like Mike's car mine is yet to hit track but more on this later. I expect it will be rather under-powered so a motor up-grade is on.

 

Regards Chas Le Breton (charlesx)

 

PS. Please excuse photos. Colour has washed out but is bright yellow and red. Not sure front tyres comply and front spoiler off at moment as am making a copy for my main Muscle car.

 

Camaro-1.jpg

 

Camaro-2.jpg

Edited by charlesx
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