Oldskool62 Posted January 15, 2021 Report Share Posted January 15, 2021 Hi All Yesterday I received my LJ Torana & HQ Monaro resin bodies. Today I started giving them the once over and noticed on both that they need a fair bit of work. Areas like around the windows need to be built up and straightened. I was thinking about using something like JB Weld or a similar epoxy. Or is tamiya putty ok? Help will be greatly appreciated. This is my first build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garry J Posted January 16, 2021 Report Share Posted January 16, 2021 Milliput 1 Quote Cheers, Garry J Old age and treachery will overcome youth and skill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldskool62 Posted January 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2021 (edited) @Garry JThanks I will hunt it down. Cheers Warren Edited January 16, 2021 by Oldskool62 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rosco01 Posted January 17, 2021 Report Share Posted January 17, 2021 Hi OS-62, I do things a little different from many in this forum - I like to reinforce any delicate parts by adding brass rod into them... or behind them. No putty that I am aware of is going to take the pounding and rigors of slot racing and marshall handling if used as B pillars or even 1/4 vents..... maybe, if they are heavily fortified by glazing... but, if the windows are open - the putty will simply crack and fall out. I have used Milliput, and have now shied away from it..... no offence intended to those who suggest it. I am about to test a Tamiya product I have not yet used... but have purchased some for upcoming work..... Tamiya epoxy putty - quick version (although they recommend 24 hours curing before working).. it's expensive, but if it does the trick - I am happy to pay. I bought the large box, which has five strips each of the two components.... there will be plenty for my modeling for quite some time before I need to go fetch any more. My issue with Milliput, is that it went hard on me... and nothing I could do or mix with it (mainly water, but tried a number of differing products) returned it to a workable mix..... the last batch I mixed up with the best of what could be recovered - took nearly four days to cure out, but fell apart when I tried to drill it.... Admittedly, it was 2 years old... but it was kept well sealed in the plastic wrapping... it just went "off". I will report on Tamiya epoxy putty when I come up in need of using it... To answer your original question - I'd go with fitting brass rod reinforcing and wrap putty around that - let it fully cure out and work it down to shape. I have had success doing this with the moved 1/4 vent frame on the little LJ I'm working on.. and use this method repeatedly in model railways... frats, Rosco 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlesx Posted January 17, 2021 Report Share Posted January 17, 2021 Hi Oldskool62. I have used 2 pot resin/epoxy with plenty of glue powder added. Good if you need to sand back. If filling holes/or cracks the same with shrink wrap pressed over it produces a smooth surface but try to not overfill. Good for repairing surf boards and boat hulls too. Regards Chas Le Breton (charlesx) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldskool62 Posted January 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 18 hours ago, charlesx said: Hi Oldskool62. I have used 2 pot resin/epoxy with plenty of glue powder added. Good if you need to sand back. If filling holes/or cracks the same with shrink wrap pressed over it produces a smooth surface but try to not overfill. Good for repairing surf boards and boat hulls too. Regards Chas Le Breton (charlesx) Hey Chas thanks for this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlesx Posted January 18, 2021 Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 Hi again. You may be able to use some of the modern sandible filler but with epoxy you are basically applying a very similar product and I have used for years with no problem. Good luck. Chas Le B 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldskool62 Posted January 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 On 1/16/2021 at 11:57 AM, Garry J said: Milliput @Garry Jwent to buy some yesterday at a hobby shop and he didn't stock it. Only had tamiya putty which I was going to get for doing some fine dent repairs. However I still have to get some. On 1/17/2021 at 6:42 PM, charlesx said: Hi Oldskool62. I have used 2 pot resin/epoxy with plenty of glue powder added. Good if you need to sand back. If filling holes/or cracks the same with shrink wrap pressed over it produces a smooth surface but try to not overfill. Good for repairing surf boards and boat hulls too. Regards Chas Le Breton (charlesx) @charlesx What brand of 2 pot resin/epoxy? Also what is the glue powder? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldskool62 Posted January 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 On 1/17/2021 at 5:21 PM, rosco01 said: Hi OS-62, I do things a little different from many in this forum - I like to reinforce any delicate parts by adding brass rod into them... or behind them. No putty that I am aware of is going to take the pounding and rigors of slot racing and marshall handling if used as B pillars or even 1/4 vents..... maybe, if they are heavily fortified by glazing... but, if the windows are open - the putty will simply crack and fall out. I have used Milliput, and have now shied away from it..... no offence intended to those who suggest it. I am about to test a Tamiya product I have not yet used... but have purchased some for upcoming work..... Tamiya epoxy putty - quick version (although they recommend 24 hours curing before working).. it's expensive, but if it does the trick - I am happy to pay. I bought the large box, which has five strips each of the two components.... there will be plenty for my modeling for quite some time before I need to go fetch any more. My issue with Milliput, is that it went hard on me... and nothing I could do or mix with it (mainly water, but tried a number of differing products) returned it to a workable mix..... the last batch I mixed up with the best of what could be recovered - took nearly four days to cure out, but fell apart when I tried to drill it.... Admittedly, it was 2 years old... but it was kept well sealed in the plastic wrapping... it just went "off". I will report on Tamiya epoxy putty when I come up in need of using it... To answer your original question - I'd go with fitting brass rod reinforcing and wrap putty around that - let it fully cure out and work it down to shape. I have had success doing this with the moved 1/4 vent frame on the little LJ I'm working on.. and use this method repeatedly in model railways... frats, Rosco @rosco01Bought some of the Tamiya product yesterday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trophy Posted July 4, 2023 Report Share Posted July 4, 2023 I would use an laminating Epoxy resin with fibres of carbon fibre. Very thin and light, if too thick is easy to sand down. Avoid adding sanding fillers to epoxy if wanting good strength as it reduces its strength and thickens the epoxy making it hard to work. For epoxy, Araldite is good stuff if you do not have access to a laminating Epoxy. Do not use 5 minute epoxy as they lack the bond and strength. I find the West Epoxy too thick but if that's all you can get heat it up with a hair drier and it will thin out, same for the Araldite. Sand the surface that requires the work for max adhesion before applying. If room temp is cold place in a warm place or oven at 25C for 24hr to get a good cure. Quote Gill A. http://hobbiesplus.co.nz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevan Posted July 4, 2023 Report Share Posted July 4, 2023 Superglue and bicarb powder, a great filler that sets like concrete. Quote Life is like a box of Slot cars... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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