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dangermouse

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dangermouse last won the day on August 26 2022

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About dangermouse

  • Birthday 01/09/1965

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  1. I think it is an a matter of the wheelbase website says wheelbase of 64mm-90mm - so that would be the main issue with the bigger cars. Smaller cars could work though.
  2. They are elusive - from my point of view any replacement needs to be on par with a BWA or I might as well forget about racing with it or buy a heap of them to replace all my BWA motors. The biggest issue I have found is they are either too slow or too fast compared to BWA/NC1 There doesn't seem to be any Goldilocks motors out there. A chap on this forum or another mentioned some that he felt were very comparable to NC1 that were on Aliexpress - I order 12 to try them out and they cancelled my order said someone bought all their stock or some other nonsense. I will follow this thread with interest
  3. Do you know about Armchair Racer in Sydney or if in Melbourne try Mr Slot Car You can find a list of MJK tyres on their websites to suit the cars you have. the 5digit number is the part number for that car cheers DM
  4. MJK do tyres for Carrera 1/24 and 1/32 cars. They would be you best bet here in Australia Which cars do you need tyres for? DM
  5. Looks really neat - (just needs some skinny wheels on it ) Nice paint job what did you use? I had trouble finding it on Pendle's site but then discovered you had reversed the numbering its a Ferrari 625. Looks really good. The Pre-Add kits look good. I just bought a PP Scarab kit looking forward to building it. Just have to find the right blue.
  6. If you are making tyre moulds where you copy the original tyre - sometimes with Pinkysil you get a reaction between the tyre and the silicone. I haven't had that happen with Smooth On - however I find Pinkysil lasts a lot longer quite a few of my Smooth On moulds have split now. I also think price wise Smooth On is dearer than Pinkysil
  7. At 300 euro for the motor and 70 euro for the ESC it won't be appearing anywhere in my future
  8. Howdy all Looking for a reasonably priced Fly Porsche 908 LH Flunder This is the long tail one (but if you have other 908 Flunders I may be interested as well) thanks DM
  9. I had never heard of coreless motors. I have seen some posts were people are using brushless motors in slot cars. What I have read on brushless it seems they offer a more consistent motor and are a lot lighter than standard DC motors. But they seem to cost around $100 for the motor and ESC. What do you see as the advantage of using a cordless motor over a standard motor? cheers David
  10. I had that experience. Previously I had also bought an Avant Slot controller on special and it didn't work. I emailed them about it and got no reply. I then emailed them about the motor pod and didn't expect a reply, surprisingly they did reply and sent a new pod but it was broken on arrival - didn't even survive shipping. I emailed back about this and their reply was quite poor really. So I emailed back and told them how poor they were and explained to them their poor service and included the email about the controller and how they make rubbish products. Surprisingly unannounced a replacement controller board and motor pod arrived at my place a few weeks later. Pod wasn't broken put the pod in the truck and it cracked again but in a different place this time so JB Weld to the rescue and the truck works and drives ok. Nothing stunning but fun enough to punt around when I get that urge to run cars I haven't run in a while. Oh and the controller worked as well so happy days.
  11. I just bought the Policar McLaren F1 and Thunderslot Lola T70 Can Am We enjoy racing the Policar cars - we race them at 9v and mostly on stock tyres with a little bit of oil to soften the rubber. They are a nicely balanced car tuneable but also raceable with minimal tuning. The Thunderslot I haven't run yet - but I already own a McLaren Can Am and a Lola T70 MKIII and they are very smooth very quick cars. We don't race them but they are really nice to drive so they are fun cars to just punt around the track.
  12. Total weight depends on the car but as a starting point - 2-5g at the nose / guide area usually works for me and then 5-10g either in front of the motor or in strips along the side of the chassis. For some cars the weight up front is all that is needed.
  13. Some more projects all except the 4CL (#4) are 3D printed. IS there a limit to how many files we can upload? Should I reduce the size of them?
  14. Ok I wasn't aware of that - this is a 3D printed 1/24 scale D50
  15. Building but not posting on here - mainly because I can take a photo with my phone and drop it straight into Fb group but on here its not as simple. Laziness on my part I know :(
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