paulthetexan

Muscle cars are easy......they all run they same chassis dimension and the bodies are all within a gram or two of each other. Any body will work. 1/32 GT. A Panoz with lexan interior would be cool but I'd stick with ScaleAuto/NSR lightweight bodies. If you get stuck give me a buzz , I'm selling up most of my cars/bodies/parts and controllers.

I like to keep it simple. I've tried a few different controllers and in the end they all perform well. Recently I have moved away from 1/24 and started enjoying 1/32 plastics again, pulled out my trusty 25 and 45 ohm parma ecconomy controllers and off I went. I'd stick with the ecconomy controllers and save some money , they do the job just fine. I think you've been on the right track all along........

Glad to see you on the pace. Nice to see times coming down with tuning. R34 - pull the guide back as far as you can. Cut the back of the guide at 45deg to get turn. Try 13mm tyres. The ol'1900 routine...............Try setting the back up with very little side to side or twisting movement around the axis. Then set the motor box up so the rear of the motor box flexes up and down. Hopefully the car will squat under breaking and arch during acceleration , driving the guide into the slot. Good luck this weekend.

Hi Brett Most of the guys that travel have metal cases that you can buy from bunnings for $25 or so. The trick is to buy 2 of them and take the lids off. Then join the 2 bottoms together for your cars and contrller and join the 2 lids together to make a tool box for your tools and parts. One of the guys (Paul NZ) up here was making them a while back but has dropped out of slotcars for a while. $50 and a few rivets, can't be too hard for a talented guy like yourself. Scoll down this page until you get to Jazzbell's box. He managed to squeeze 18 cars and a controller in easily enough. http://www.auslot.co...14/page__st__80 Hope this helps

Try Loctite 263

How did you go Brett ? Did you get around to any testing on Friday night ?

Hi Brett Yes , I have sent thru a detail message. In addition to that I just see little detail things, each one on it's own is nothing but all together they will add up to another 5-8gms you can put into the chassis. Lose the lead wire clips , use lite weight guide nut, wheels are a few years behind so new light weight racing wheels , cut the top off chassis screws, Move the front spring all the way forward, change to plastic pinion (loctite 263) , move the floating lead to each side of motor , the lead you have each side of the motor can be reshaped to increase the amount out wide. 11/33 gear won't work with heavy cars , they don't like small spur gears, change to 12/36 or 12/37. Fit plastic axle spacers to rear axle. Make sure your wheels are spaced out to the limit of the body. I notice the Audi in the back ground the wheels are well within the gaurds. Let me know how you go.........

I'm trying to get a certain car to do a lap time I know the car needs to do to be competitive, rollout is only one thing I'm looking at. What cars is it , can you post a picture of the chassis ?

Just joking around Brett, happy to help anyway I can.....

That's all you get Brett, after beating me with my own car at APC your on the black list I'm pulling a Rossi......... A light body car will always be faster with the same chassis setup.

Hi Brett When you start using it you just get to know rollouts for tracks. Definitely not straight length more overall lap time. Lets say for Mini-Z Narrangbah (smaller track) is 22.6 whereas the APC track at RedRacer runs about 23.8 - 24. The Fat Black is in the middle so thats where you test. 22.8 - 23.5 is still a broad range. I know it still sounds a bit vague but at least you aren't testing at 22 or 27. Then when you arrive you can spend your time learning the track instead of sitting in the pits changing gears all day. I think Jason's red hot Mclaren was only running 22.3? real short but accelerate and break very well which suited the Fat Black. For MCN I would start at 23.8 - 24.0 for Mini-Z and Modern GT. Historics are limited by the 10t pinion so just run the smallest gear you can 10/32-10/33. Use your track as a reference so when you travel you can make gearing taller or shorter accordingly. Apparently the APC track will be run in the reverse direction for the first time so rollouts may change a little , I think it looks a little tighter or less flowing in the reverse direction. Start using the book and you will be a pro in no time, and don't forget to measure the tyres on each individual car before choosing a ratio. It's the rollout figure that is the important info, not the gear which is the end result. Just because you use 12/35 on one Mini-Z doesn,t mean they will all be that way. A change in wheel diameter of 0.25mm can mean 1 tooth on the spur with some cars.

What the? Where do I get this mythical book? Is it suited for a small flowing home track? I purchased mine from Ace Hobbies, however it is more suited to 1/24 commercial tracks.

Aaahhhhh the roll out book........ I continue to be surprised how few people understand this tool. But it is pretty straight forward....If you have more than 1 or 2 cars it's essential.... It is motor specific and it is track specific. You need to test on your track to find the optimum gear for the tyre diameter you have. Once you have tested gearing in a car to achieve it's potential use the roll out book to identify the rollout figure. Distance travelled per revolution of motor. Once you have a roll out figure for a specific motor on your track you can tune any other car easily using that roll out figure. Start by measuring the tyre diameter and then choose a gear ratio from the chart. The initial testing can't be avoided, however once you are happy with testing you can transfer that result to any other car and be on the money straight away. You will find small variance between individual motors but at least you will be very close. Car specific is more to do with class dynamics like body style and weight. Lexan classes will run a taller gear than heavy hard body classes generally. I imagine the Fat Black should be in the range of 22.8 - 23.5 with a fox iv. Lighter cars may go a bit taller. Historics at 24 and F1 up at 25.5. A good start anyway. Usually I gear my cars to be flat out half way down the straight. That way they accelerate and brake well but only give way a couple of inches down the straight. The last thing you need is a tall geared car that won't brake into the hair pins on the gutter lanes. Let me know if you need more specific info......

Hi BigMick I've never glued a bearing and never had a failure to date . No chatter either. Having said that I don't do any endurance racing and have only built one S/A car, maybe that's what you have to do to get them competetive for endurance racing. Here's a video of a chassis from 2012 to show what you can acheive , simply built and press fit bearings into holders. No special tricks or tools or advanced engineering. I don't think a bearing cylinder 6mmdia. x 3mm long with flanges on each end will deform when pressed into an alloy holder. That's how I build mine anyway. I like to keep it simple. http://s605.photobuc...tml?sort=3&o=74 The best advise I would give JPH is to use new parts wherever possible, and think of your car as a precision instrument.It should sing like a swiss watch. Keep it clean and dry (no lubricants) and service it regularly. Tyre condition is paramount and keep body float to a minimum. Cheers Paul

Nice rims Jim, how do get them to shine.....

Hi Pagey No offense taken , happy to listen to feedback and your comments have been voice by others also. This discussion is probably better left to a different thread instead of high jacking Jasons build thread. What I would like say is most classes have issues whether it be scale , cost , availability , complexity , durability , parity etc. Pick a class and I'm sure someone will find a problem with it. In the end we compromise to find the best practical solution and hopefully still enjoy it. Jason Looking forward to seeing it on the track tomorrow night. I've started referring to that car as Charlie Kemp already. I'm thinking of building a split window corvette for fun. Did they run in TransAm ?

Hi Glen Would you feel better if the rules where changed to allow Mustang drivers to add flares to the bodies just to cover the wheels. We're only talking about 1mm each side. It's better than not running the mustang because it's too narrow. Regards Paul

Nothing better than someone doing something different.........very nicely turned out If that doesn't inspire the next project nothing will

Imagine 4 cars being able to cross into the next lane at each corner. Sounds like a lot of fun to me ! The amount of side drift would be relative to the length of the guide arm. Imagine a Maserati MC12 with a long guide arm , that's funny right there .......

Howdy While I was looking around another forum I came across this cool idea. The thread goes on for 18 pages of discussion which held some interest but the thing I liked was , a cool idea with home made parts that truly offers something different to slotcars Be sure to check out the video at the end of the first post..........enjoy ! http://www.slotforum...showtopic=99242 Also the 3D model at the bottom of this page http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=99242&st=180

Not true. Only beginner classes. All others on the Plafit Masters Track. Hopefully someone can confirm

Have a look thru some old MCN threads. I think Jazzbell has already posted some good build threads etc.

Hey Grant Sounds like a plan , be worth checking out your new track as well as it goes up. Keep in touch Cheers Paul

Send all your misunderstood fly cars to me , I love em.....

Wish I was there.....