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Everything posted by SlotsNZ
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Et moi
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Plus the two laps you lost for “speeding” . I saw a 3.796 flash up at one point when the buzzer sounded
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Great work there Gazza
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Yes, it is full, and it is over 1mm thick. I thought about it, but try as I might, I couldn’t get the glass to come loose - was afraid it would break. (And I am not steady enough to try and cut it in situ with a rotating dremel blade.) And as I at least want it to be legal for our pre-65 class, a Lexan replacement window set isn’t an option. - It could never be a winner, but can get some laps.
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Challenge accepted Managed to drop the front about 1.5mm by opening up the axle supports and sleeving the axle. It has improved cornering speeds a little. Can’t really take the back any lower unless I narrow the track further, which would be self defeating for drive stability.
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Have always loved these, and so had to grab one to tune, plus an Inspector Morse for a shelf queen. they are very narrow, so their race potential is a liquor less than nil, but I’ve tweaked this one as best I can. Motor swapped for an SRC 16k, geared 10:25 with oilites replacing the original bushes. Slot.it axle and crown. Front wheels are original, but replaced the axle with a Slot.it one and tried up tyres, slightly reducing O.D. I trimmed off the protruding axle mount plastic, out in 0.5mm shims for free rotation, so the fronts sit slightly inside the body- so it can rock. Turned down the rear hubs to make inserts. At bare minimum meat left outside the spokes, I was able to fit them inside Scaleauto 16.2x8.5 bossless wheels, which I have fitted with Slot.it 1171 N22 tyres, glued and trued. End result is that with thin spacers I can get these inside the rear mudguards. Added about 5 grams weight above the original magnet, and around 9 grams split either side of chassis forward of the motor. I kept the lights Guide is Slotting Plus wood guide with thin braid. Front tyres touch the track, and guide is full depth. it looks completely stock at first glance, but is fractionally lower. It won’t beat the low sports cars, but runs smooth, with a little bit of controllable slide. It is probably on a par with a tuned Ninco XK120 Jag now. A bit tippy, but can be driven predictably at a reasonable pace
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Will be really interesting to compare the difference in dimensions, ride height etc. - and the body weights.
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Smithy, they’ve arrived. #12 is on the bench. Inspector Morse is waiting in the wings. - they’re about as wide as a pencil - a skinny pencil, so not going to break any lap records, but will be a smile-drive at least.
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I’ll be there
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http://youtube.com/nSFf2O_jTNI?si=ssJLQD1KmdBBd7Vg
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I just don’t think that when Slot.it were creating the G25, that wood track racing was at all in their horizon. For those not aware, most major events, and thus by default most larger clubs racing in the main European markets is on plastic tracks. Formerly Ninco, but increasingly Policar and some ScaleAuto Pro-Track - except Germany where Carrera still has a strong following. They don’t glue or true, and certainly don’t “treat”. At major events, tyres are handed out just before the race commences, and in the case of longer enduros which require tyre changes, you take your car to the race control desk, hand over your worn tyres and fit a new pair in front of the scrutineers, then walk back to the track. I have just had a parallel discussion about these with Harry Wise and John Albright. John advised he uses Methylated spirits or water from memory, squirted on the surface to cool these while truing. If they overheat, all is lost. And they ARE shore 25, that is a lot harder than we like. As comparison NSR Super-grip from memory are Shore 22, Ultra about 15. And the Slot.it N series came in 22 and 18. Sideways Higrip hard were 25, medium 22 and soft were 18. Thunderslot seem nice, and are - in my estimation - between 20 and 22 shore. They seem easy to true. Sideways Pro come in the same three shore values as did hi-grip, but are a bit of a pig to true - they need cooling as you go - or go dead slow, and use talcum powder as a slip agent. I confess, I just use what came on the car for all the main brands except Slot.it - I kept about 80 packs of N22 between the three sizes, including a few N18 when I sold the shop - I did give Ironhorse 200 packs, they went in about 6 weeks. I tend to still use mainly N22 on all my aftermarket builds like Pioneer, Scalextric, Proslot, Fly, SRC etc., unless I need a particular profile that I can get from the wide NSR range of profiles.
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Yo there lads, ladies, royalty and rogues. As Philip can’t host at Tombstone this week, let’s gather at Oakland, which we skipped over last week due to uncertainty over my recovery. And FWIW - shoulder is now also A ok, I can marshall with both hands. Week 1 1 Pioneer Legends 2 Muscle Cars 3 1965 to 1980 sports Gates open as usual at 5:30
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Thanks. Yeah, I forgot to get a solo pic, thought I’d collected all the mugs. (sorry Jas), so he is just in the group shots. The software also has limits on 6 “actors” to name.
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Still can’t embed the videos This is a movie trailer https://youtu.be/Rvq0kK057H0?si=LEYlRhBI_h91j9rT
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Some video from last night. Unfortunately having switched to the limited frame rate and definition PAL modes to avoid any possibility of flicker, the quality suffers. Darn thing won’t embed today, so can only do a link https://youtu.be/aL9apGDnas8?si=_7TYAVNQ562XO_1O
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STILL waiting for Olifer to advise my order of 3D chassis is ready to ship. meanwhile, I am talking to Vasco at National Racers 3D - also in Portugal, with plans for him to send me some chassis in a few weeks when he has completed a design project. So if anyone from our club wants any product from them - holler. Postage tracked seems reasonable- 5 chassis for €15 as an indicator. https://www.nationalracers3d.com/shop My order will include a couple of Scalextric Falcon XB chassis.
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I’ll be on the start line
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Excellent work - nice addition for the club. That looks like it will be a nice flowing circuit to drive
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Hi Charles The official statement was that a component in the formula was no longer able to be sourced. I noted at the time that over just about a 3 month period, - Slot.it N series (22 and 18) - Sideways Hi-grip in all 3 a-shore values (which were quite similar to N series) - NSR Ultragrip and Supergrip original formula All ceased production and availability. It would seem to me there was a common factor in the loss of all these from the market.
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Pedro - I believe I may have solved the flickering issue. Having been reminded that your tubes are LED not fluoro, I did a web search, and found some YouTube threads on GoPro about switching a “deep in the bowels” camera setting between 60hz and 50hz when under LED lights to fix this very problem. So hopefully that proves to be the cure.
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Raw footage from the GoPro. The advantage of a static camera and remote enables us to grab different angles. It’s weird Peter, my phone captures last night also have some flicker which we don’t see with the naked eye. Will have to try using alternative frame rates sometime to see if it solves the problem
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Sorry, the GoPro footage was just too flickery. This was mostly what I captured on my phone early on. It has a bit of flicker too, I think it’s the fluorescent light frequency
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Great to have the Rodsun back in the house, and muy excelente night of laughter in the cave. Gutted - it’s been so long since I used the GoPro, I forgot that my default record mode has an fps that creates flickering under Pedro’s Fluoro lights. Sorry, Burger Bros movie production is gone with the wind this week. I’ll have another play with fresh eyes tomorrow, see if I can rescue something