sellout

Great man that kept 1/24 and wing Car racing alive in Queensland has passed away too soon. He will be missed by so many people.

volvo I painted using Tamiya pressure pack and patos peel and stick internal stickers. Makes for a very lite body. Whole car now for sale as well Pm if interested

Replace the screw with a Parma brass button I have done this for a few people and never had a problem.

Peel and stick all the way if you want to spray paint, water slide will only work if you hand paint after doing decals. Personally I think stickers on the outside cut properly looks more realistic.

I think keeping the scale auto wheels but allow donuts to keep costs down would be a sensible idea, especially as the only way to adjust for gearing is tyre size. Plafit wheels are a better quality item but as Jan sais they pollute the class. Scale auto wheels bend when they take a hit and I think that adds a good element to the national endurance races.

16 points is enough to not change the result. Getting 16 points isn't hard, you don't have to be a master modeler. Just focus on lots of detail, add as much as you can. Exhaust, mirrors, gearbox detail, interior detail etc. Cars of that era had simple paint jobs anyway. Werner just wants to see you have made a genuine effort to reproduce the original car and the detail it had. It's actually not as hard as people think just expensive to buy all the bits. I have always built can am because they are the easiest to detail up. I won APC with a 16.5 body in 2014 against Paul's 20 point body.

Use super glue and fine fibreglass mesh, 3 layers in diferent directions. It's light and strong you can get it from model shops.

Paul is correct with the 1900 chassis mine was a rocket setup that way. I have also found you can add the suspension front end which makes no difference to lap times but does make the car more forgiving and predictable