Scorpius Wireless revolutionary braid disc decoder for SSD

[aussieslotter]

Hi Guys,

Most analogue and digital racers would be familiar with the quick change braid disc that cones standard with Scalextric cars for around a decade now. 
Always the issues of soldering chips into cars to make them digital, or relying on the DPR hatch, that’s if the car has that feature. 

After reading an idea by Riko about putting the chip into the actual guide I was inspired to go one step further. Is it possible for a child or adult to install a digital with no soldering required? Without dismantling the car? 

Pic 1: Standard quick change braid disc by Scalextric.

Pic 2: Scorpius Wireless digital conversion chip for standard Scalextric cars to run on standard Scalextric Sports Digital Systems.

The board thickness is 0.3mm and the highest component 1.0 or 1.3 mm total. That leaves 0.1mm clearance and  fits PERFECTLY into the available space! 
Unfortunately it is not compatible to Arc Pro unless you perform the grey wire mod, More on that later

It has wireless and app connection for configuring the car decoder and upgrading firmware. Also features an accelerometer and wireless telemetry.

Looks like a fun project coming up

 

Edited March 7, 2021 by aussieslotter

[Shaynus]

That is seriously cool! Well done Rick!

[aussieslotter]

7 hours ago, C-Type said:

Hi aussieslotter, its a small world...

A few folk were discussing putting small decoders into guide blade assemblies within a thread which started with a discussion about putting just the LED or phototransistor into the guide blade. This started a few days back on sfi.

https://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=200941&p=2433005

There is reference to positioning of a decoder into the space where the guide plate is located within the SSD guide blade configuration/assembly - post #11 if I remember correctly. And thats dated 11/2/21. That thread too makes reference to Riko coming up with the original decoder-in-guide-blade concept. Great you took the idea onto the next stage with an inspiring CAD image of future possibilities.

Looks like a case of great minds thinking alike.

c

 

 

Hi C

Yes I read the thread and have given credit accordingly to Riko being in the guide post. 
 

I have the read the thread just now, thanks for the link, and see another reference to a similar idea using solder blobs.

The trick here is the utilise what exists for power in and out of the chip. This is where the difference is in that this concept doesn’t need solder, or to even dismantle the car in any way. In fact only scissors are required to trim braids to a new length.

Also the fact it’s not compatible to Arc Pro is an issue.

Hope this clarifies.

 

Rick

 

Edited February 14, 2021 by aussieslotter

[aussieslotter]

Here’s some progress pics shown exactly to scale.
Firstly a side view of the guide with new decoder attached, the oath of the braid and 2 raised conductive bars each side of the guide to press braid firmly onto board contact area and also to push shoe into contact with PCB for motor power.

Cavity allowed for the plate by existing guide is 15mm height wise. So my entire assembly can not exceeed 15mm.

Assuming I use a 4 mm board and a 0.5mm nylon insulator washer, custom cut to suit the Scalextric guide that allows 10.5mm highest component. All doable. Just.

The nRF52832 radio chip also just fits. It’s the largest component in terms of area so if that fits everything else will fit in the 135 or so available sq.mm. Assuming room is wasted with a circular PCB we can probably net around 80 sq mm of that 135 sq.mm. 

Now the current F1 nano chip by Scorpius uses 47 sq.mm so I’m adding an accelerometer and more powerful mosfets and still have room to spare.

PCB shape layout also shown with dimensions. I’ve only shown the radio chip, nRF52832. This shows the engineer the shape, position of slots and conductive pads for power in and out fir both polarities.

And finally a pic of the special nylon insulating washer that will be custom cut to suit the guide exactly. This is the crucial part of the design and without it the project cannot proceed. The pic shows how the power that normally goes to motor for analogue cars is diverted to the PCB using a frictional fit.
I’ve tested this configuration where it only wraps around the plate once, not twice as per factory. Pulling on the braid extremeAly hard seen the braid stay in place perfectly. 
The cut out on the nylon insulting washer allied power from decoder to motor via the factory stainless shoes supplied.

The LED will be infrared SMD (surface mounted) shining  downwards through a 2.00mm hole through the PCB. 

The entire idea is the decider can be fitted in seconds without removing the shell or the guide itself with only a small pair of side cutters required.

Rick

 

Edited February 15, 2021 by aussieslotter

[aussieslotter]

1 hour ago, C-Type said:

Hi assieslotter,

Slightly different version from 2018... not a decoder in-a-Hornby-guide-plate... but LED in the same position as per your new idea and with guide blade reshaped for compatibility... it worked nicely... so hopefully this adds confidence that your new idea will work too.

https://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=201011&p=2434673

c

 

Thanks C.
Now to try to think of a work around for Arc Pro compatibility. 

And I believe C7042 APB has same issue unless upgraded.

Rick

[aussieslotter]

Thanks C. I did see that post a long while back. 

[aussieslotter]

I wonder if this could be a fix for Arc Pro compatibility? A competition guide.

LED on rear of disc plate.

Guide extended forward.

Drawing scale : 10:1

SMD LED and IR beam shown in red.

PCB shown in green 

Braid shown in blue.

21.8mm from front of guide to LED.

Could this work? Hmmmmm

 

Edited February 16, 2021 by aussieslotter

[aussieslotter]

Yes I seen that. 
I drew that up yesterday afternoon and emailed Riko a pic for his take on it. I guess there’s only 2 ways to find out. 
 

What’s crucial is, is it the time from the PB first sees the blade to the time it sees the LED or the time it stops seeing the LED. If it’s the latter the chances of working are reduced drastically  

Still not out of jail yet.

Rick

[aussieslotter]

.....and here utilising the factory guide with rear of guide only trimmed. Front of guide is left untouched.

Tools required: Small side cutters or hobby knife.

Skill set required: Entry level hobbyist.

Install method.

1. Trim 3mm (nominal) off rear of guide.

2. Install insulator 

3. Clip in decoder 

Done.

 

Rick

 

 

 

[aussieslotter]

Time to test. 

[Shaynus]

Fingers crossed!

[aussieslotter]

It works!

ok first video no sound but you can see the car activating laps on the Magic Arc app.

I went to shoot new video car chip caught on fire.  See second

So no second video with sound. But the poor chip did it’s job and died valiantly in the name of digital slot car miniaturisation and advancement.

So we know it works on ID 1 at low speed.

Next step onto our 12.5m/S test loop-de-loop. See here:

Once we test at speed on IDs1 and 6 successfully we can think about a specification and CAD drawings etc for a PCB design by John.

 

Rick

[aussieslotter]

The Arc Pro can only be out in the track one way. 
If so if it’s reversed will the LED in front of the guide not rear if guide then work?

 

Rick

[aussieslotter]

Cool so there were actually 2 remedies.

 

Rick

[aussieslotter]

Hi Guys,

Next issue is trying to get a very flat SMD LED with a lens.

Lots of versions around with no lens. However it will need to be tested and perhaps the next challenge. 

Next step to test at speed and this requires transplanting the Arc Pro lapcouting hardware into the infinity vertical test loop. 
 

Rick

 

Edited February 18, 2021 by aussieslotter

[aussieslotter]

So adapting a Arc Pro lapcounter to a circular vertical test track...

 

 

I found a second set of blade sensors In the trailing end of the track piece. I’m going to assume that’s for pit exit detection and not include it in the testing for now.

 

Rick

Edited February 20, 2021 by aussieslotter

[aussieslotter]

Ok time to test speed limits on IDs 1-6

[aussieslotter]

Hi. Guys

The intention is to test ID recognition of cars at varying speeds.

Firstly I will start around 8.5 m/s and go from there, probably 10 then 12.5 m/S

First step install the Arc Pro powerbase, remove the carp factory power supply and add a lab power supply, regulated, 0-30A/0-30VDC adjustable. 

Next stage to check ID recognition. 

 

Rick

 

[aussieslotter]

Ok results:

Well it counts laps.

But what lap, when and time?

The BLE and Hornby protocol can’t keep up to the loop. This unit truly is toy level.

Hmmmm maybe the Arc Pro has a minimum lap time.

Delays appear up to 2 seconds!

So dragstrip here we come!

Power supply is fine for normal use. However I need more than 15V plus the ability to constantly tune speed using the voltage knob. Mandatory.

Anyway I’m used to seeing real rock solid time data on the screen on milliseconds with Scorpius. So a big disappointment here with the Hornby product. 

The Arc Pro will still be good for one at a time passes. Ie dragstripn....But I’ll need to use a Scorpius chip in parallel to use my existing speed trap hardware and firmware with wireless telemetry 
 

 

Rick 

 

Edited February 25, 2021 by aussieslotter

[aussieslotter]

I guess because the time and diameter cancel each other out leaving Pi.

[aussieslotter]

Ok test results. 
I tested the hardest case scenario. With the LED in the plate plate area and 4mm trimmed of the trailing edge of guide. A segment of the plate as removed to allow the LED full view of the photo transistors embedded in the Scaley Arc Pro lap counter track piece....first up on ID6 then ID1.
On ID1 I was able to get 100% reliability on ID1 at 7.5m/s but only 0.5m/s for ID 6

I moved the LED into the chassis quite a distance towards the rear of the chassis and got much better results. Still not 100% actually. I get the impression the lapcounting on ID6 is not as robust as previous model power bases but I could be wrong.

So what’s acceptable? I’m going to say 8.5m/s. Sure we can ask for more but is it going to happen?

So at 0.5m/S this concept cannot work as it falls well short of the required 8.5m/s ....at this stage ....in my opinion. 

So on with the current Scorpius F1 chip (firmware is nearly complete) and new SSD project I will announce shortly. 

I really hate giving up on this project but the way the Arc Pro system is designed it doesn’t accomodate this sort of third party development. 
 

Rick 
 

Edited February 21, 2021 by aussieslotter

[aussieslotter]

I find actual testing over theoretical numbers is the preferred  method.

All the other IDs are proportionate to ID6. ie lower IDs ok 

Even at 3.3m/s its not going to cut it.

All standard firmware used.

Big difference to 24 car IDs counting 10,000 laps at 10m/s with 100% success rate. It really reinforces the comparison of a professional system over a toy system. 
 

So onwards we go.

Placing the chip in the guide or on top of the guide doesn’t interest me nor my idea so that won’t be our goal. I see no advantage and actually see hassles with any guide project. Logic is if I need to remove shell and place LED on the chassis there really is no advantage and two lots of wires would be messy. 
 

More soon on an exciting new SSD project.

 

Rick 

Edited February 21, 2021 by aussieslotter

[aussieslotter]

Nope

[aussieslotter]

Just playing around.

The more we delve into it. The problem is the requirement of 4 diodes for AC. ( In a flat space) And that alone takes space. 
The other issue is the slot cut out. It’s a huge chunk of real estate where tracks cannot cross. 
And the third issue the circular shape, meaning rectangular and square mean wasted real estate along the outside edge. 
Custom making a guide.... hmmm....it’s possible but I need to see the advantages over installing a nano chip or any chip as per the normal method.

And a LED in the guide or plate won’t be Arc Pro compatible regardless. I’m looking for a no exceptions compatible solution. ie works with all Scalextric digital products, no mods or 3rd party firmware upgrades.
DPR cars are already quite easy to change. No need to remove shell or use soldering iron. 

It’s a fun project, but there’s limits in what we have available to work with.

Today we had another look but for now it remains on hold while we look for smaller diodes.

So now back to complete firmware on the F1 chip.
 

Rick
 

Edited February 23, 2021 by aussieslotter

[ade]

good stuff Rick ...differentiating by integration :thumb: