My Repaints/Scratchbuilds/Restorations-By Mattcrackers

[charlesx]

Ta Phil.

Ivan in Auckland has IDed all motors so perhaps he has seen in person. According to him only one 26D, lots of FT16 and Johnson's or something like that plus blue one but I do not recall. Only of passing interest. Have no use for any of them. I am currently thinking of looking into brushless motors. Went to Henderson 60th recently where we tested brushless motors with 6 hour 1/24th Enduro. Great success with no breakdowns after about 24000 laps. Approx. 4000 laps per car. Only 150 laps between all cars at end. Regards Charles Le Breton

[gazza]

Yours if you want them Matt, just let us know.

[mattcrackers]

Cheers Gaz,

That tray looks very similar to what I have here at home.

Won't be needing them thanks,

Much appreciated,

Matt

[big dennis]

Asp motor? More than likely a 36D.

As Phil commented the Mabuchi 26Ds had oval cooling holes and the standard motors did indeed have blue wires on the armature.

The other 'give away'? Mabuchi 26Ds were usually end-bell drive ... the motor in that Asp is can-drive.

Champion in the USA did make an aftermarket 26D which had a longer armature shaft and could be used for either can-drive or endbell-drive applications. A lot of the performance parts in those motors were badged as Arco.

Those Arco armatures were usually balanced and the (brown/red) windings expoxied.

Den

[Chrisguyw]

11 hours ago, big dennis said:

Asp motor? More than likely a 36D.

Den

The (regular) Classic "ASP" was powered by an FT16D, the "Competition ASP" was powered by a 26D......obviously different motor brackets, and a few other minor differences.

 

cheers

Chris Walker

[mattcrackers]

Here's something I did just to see if it could be done/if I could actually do it.

Having limited experience with resin other than slush molds I thought I'd try my hand at something a little more difficult.

A couple of years ago now a mate asked me to restore/repair a couple his cars from the Scalextric James Bond set.

You can see them on page 9 of this thread.

Anyway, because I had made a few molds to complete these two cars, had a better idea of what I was doing, I may have made up a few extra parts, just a couple. The pic below is of the parts which weren't up to scratch, but it gives you an idea of how many parts were needed. The tyres were home-made as well, but not pictured here.

I originally used the Timber set with white dye to make the body and chassis (as seen in the pic above), actually came up quite good except for the hole in the roof, which wasn't an air bubble but unmixed dye. Nothing like waiting 24+hours to know you didn't mix the resin properly. Procast medium set resin with black dye was used for the seat, machine guns, guide and ejector seat lever and for most of the other parts. I used the timber set resin to make the lights and windscreen with a little red dye added to the mix to make the tail lights. 

 

Combine all these ingredients together and I ended up with this.

A fully functional slot car.

The body is Procast resin, painted white, wheels, bumpers, bullet proof screen, front grill and rear number plate have been chromed with the Molotow pen. Interior painted with my favourite cheap Bunnings red paint. Drivers head and the baddie have been painted to suit.

Top off and bullet proof screen up.

The only parts that weren't made were the axles, RX motor, wiring and springs and 4 screws.

The springs used for the bullet proof screen I pulled out of one of those 4 coloured pens (you know, the blue one with blue,red,black and green inks). Axles were made from piano wire, ejector seat torsion spring off ebay (I needed one for the original so had some made to size and leftover). Only problem with the ejector seat torsion spring is I ordered it with 4 winds instead of 2, at least when it ejects the baddie he gets a free ride into space.

And since it come up alright I thought it needed it's own box.

 

Wasn't a bad build, taught me a lot about resin and making molds with the different variety of shapes etc. 

But, something was missing...............

Yeah, I had to do the Merc as well.

Quite easy compared to the Aston.

Body is one piece, in Procast resin dyed black, interior with red dye.

Bumpers from Procast with chrome pen.

Windshield and lights from Timber set clear epoxy.

And a little paint for the figures.

And of course. it needed a box to match.

A couple more pics of them both together.

Thanks for looking.

cheers

Matt

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited September 7, 2023 by mattcrackers

[old man]

Great job Matt

[Vinno]

Looks great Matt. In 50 years someone will find them in a garage sale and they will be sold as mint in box Vintage Scalextric cars for $20k each.  

[rosco01]

Great work, Matt.... you've created something which cannot be purchased.

I prefer to use EasyCast for my castings.... it might be something you may wish to look at. I use a pressure chamber to expel air - as opposed to a vacuum one.. which tends to make the stuff froth up and aerate.

Working time is only a couple of minutes, that's the downside with it. But it works beautifully with files and fine wet/dry.... takes a primer readily and also Tamiya putty.... it has flex, but will return to "memory".... 

Great work.

frats,

Rosco

[mattcrackers]

Thanks fellas.

Didn't build these overnight, probably took longer than it should have.

Rosco, I have used EasyCast, actually the first resin I used.

Great for fast casting but I found some things take longer than you expect.

I do have a pressure pot which I made up but haven't had much success with it.

An example is the Atlas Brabhams I did earlier in the year.

Without the pressure pot. Nice smooth finish.

With the pressure pot. 

Still something I need to get the hang of.

Maybe too much pressure. not sure.

Matt

 

[kalbfellp]

Matt 

The problem is with the mould, the silicon had air bubbles is it, when you apply the pressure during casting it forces the resin into the air bubble holes..If you used Pinkysil it tends to set faster, than some other silicons so that air bubbles are often a problem.You can de gas the silicon under vacuum or try pouring it from about 8 or 900 mm above mould.Also mix the silicon slowly.

[rosco01]

Thanks Matt... I do things a little different to most. I like to pour a small film over the areas of the mould that I know will trap air... and pin prick them out... once that is set up... I pour the remainder in and then apply pressure.... watching the air expel.

I have tried using a small brush to do much the same thing with a thin coating over the detail parts.. and that worked as well. But, Easy Cast goes off so darned fast... it's quite demanding.

I agree with Phil.... Pinkysil is probably the perfect moulding medium for Easy Cast... I really like both... but I prefer to work with Pinkysill... I've been rewarded with some very intricate detail which has been faithfully reproduced by Easy Cast.... it just keeps giving.. 

 

Best thing about EasyCast - if you stuff it up, you know 10 minutes after the pour - and can repeat it.... 

 

I have also tried using a small syringe to push Easy Cast into Pinkysil... and that worked as well....... only for the fine detail stuff.. then a "body" pour to fill it out.

Pretty much makes the syringe u/s after one shot... I've tried many chemicals to flush out Easy Cast.... but they usually attack the syringe plunger... acetone worked a few times for each syringe.... but with the fine brush method.. I find I don't use syringes very often of late.... 

 

frats,

Rosco

[mattcrackers]

Thanks Phil.

Yes I have noticed when I mix the Pinkysil fast it creates plenty of air bubbles.

Really got to learn to be a bit more patient, and pour from higher up.

Rosco.

I've used 5ml syringes for years and get many uses out of the one.

Usually remove the plunger part, give the rubber a quick wipe with metho, stand upright and let set.

Once hardened I push the set resin out with a small screwdriver, usually one that fits snug into the spout.

They come in handy for pouring/squirting resin into the smaller molds, like figures etc.

And yes, I also have been using a small plastic, round ended piece to get rid of air bubbles when doing the molds.

Works well when doing certain slush molds where the side mirrors trap the air etc.

I find cleaning out the unused resin from pots/syringes etc is easily cleaned up with a rag and metho as well.

And wearing disposable gloves, which I re-use as well.

Cheers for the advice fellas.

Edited September 7, 2023 by mattcrackers

[munter]

You guys are on to it.

 

[rosco01]

43 minutes ago, munter said:

You guys are on to it.

 

thanks Munter.... great to learn you are still in here, frats Rosco 

 

[mattcrackers]

Another build I did some time ago.

Thought I'd already added it to this thread but apparently not.

This was built from an AMT 1/25 Ford Fairlane GT/GTA kit a mate gave me for working on some of his cars.

I had it for quite some time, sitting on the shelf, with no idea what I wanted to do.

Saw this in a hobby shop and decided this is the way I'd go.

Had the body, paint, decals etc but needed a chassis.

With what I had in the shed I started building a brass chassis.

I had some 1/24 ScaleAuto wheels I picked up years ago, might as well put them to use.

Test fitted to the body to check clearances etc, front axle was a little to wide.

Shortened the chassis to suit, test fitted again, was happy with how it was sitting so finished the chassis.

I've put an NSR motor in it for now, still need to work out the right gear combination.

Body kit was built up with the chrome parts blu-tacked in place. 

Body mounts added and adjusted to my liking.

Body was given a coat of grey primer, sanded, followed by 2 coats light blue, sanding between coats and some orange stripes added. Finished with a clear coat. Probably the cleanest lines I've painted on a car yet.

Glued all the chrome parts in place and fitted to the chassis with some ScaleAuto inserts from another car.

Added some decals, chromed the wipers, door handles etc. Wasn't game enough to do all the chrome trim.

Inserts had to go back on their original car so made some in black resin to suit.

Windscreen glued in place. Front ride height can always be adjusted with spacers.

Something I tend to not finish is the interiors on some cars, will get to them one day but for now this is how it is.

And it runs, not that well with my choice of gearing at the moment, but It'll get there.

One day..

Like the interior.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Vinno]

Love old Fairlanes and this is a nice build. 

[rosco01]

Great work, Matt..... 1/24th allows for a bit more detail in scale..

I bet this one looks great in running...?

 

frats,

Rosco

[gazza]

Nice job there Matt

 

[Brent St Lanes]

Thats just lovely. Great job.

[mattcrackers]

Thanks fellas,

Yeah it came up alright but doesn't run the best at the moment.

Next time I get to a timber track I'll play around with the gear ratio and a few other things.

Mate actually gave me a AMT 1:25 Ford Galaxie yesterday.

Looks like I'll be building another brass chassis sooner than later.