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While building a Pioneer Legends 34 Ford white kit I wondered what else i have on the 3D printer could fit the chassis So behold the XE Legend Had the Falcon file so it was only a matter of shrinking it down to fit the chassis, fit some outrageous wide guards and there you have it Bit more fun for the track and i'm sure no one else is going to turn up with the same body and scheme on race night

Hi all During last our last lockdown, which thankfully didn't last too long, I decided to purchase some 3D files. This is my first attempt at a mostly self made slotcar - one of my goals for my 3D printer. Body was printed on the smallest wall thickness. It lost a little detail but I plan to race this in our Aussie Touring Car class so not too bothered with how pretty it is. Decals have arrived from Pattos place so will add these when I get some time. Have gone for peel & stick as I find them excellent to work with and very hardy for door to door rubbing. Body, chassis, guide & driver 3D printed in PLA+ on a Creality Ender 5 Wheel inserts are Resin printed from Slotcar Innovations https://www.facebook.com/Slot-Car-Innovations-101977758704509 Interior & windows vac formed. (thanks to Munter for his help) Some pics of the journey Cheers

Hey Oldskool, Apologies it's taken so long, I had a few projects in front of it. Finally, we can see the light at the end, a couple more hours and it should be ready for you. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Cheers NimROD

The modular Bathurst track over 5 tables is on the drawing board. It will come as a MrTrax Hybrid Plus digital system. Meaning it will run (6) Carrera digital cars plus ghost cars. Or 2 analogue cars and thus the Lane Changers and Pit lane will be non-active. We superimposed the topography of Mount Panorama into the landscape to give it some realism. For those purists, you'll just have to suck it up, because it's not possible to replicate every corner detail perfectly! And from a modular point of view, this is how the layout needs to be. I haven't included the Lane changers on this drawing. But I do have a version with the Lane changers in place. The topography took a lot of time to source and re-jig into my modular version. The landscape should look pretty good if we can scale match the contour lines. The 4 tables making up "Conrod", are 120cm x 180cm. Whilst the larger 5th table is 120cm x 240cm. We're hoping to get between 30cm and 40cm in height.

Have now got the decals on now so can call this one done. These are Patto's peel and stick which a) are easy to apply & reposition & b) good for cars that get a lot of use. These ones were a bit tricky as they were the 'full side of car' ones which include the car's colour. I needed to trim them all close to the edges to remove the background colour.

The release of the Slot.It Winfield Nissan really reignited my interest in slots. It had been about 4 years since I'd bought a car, and other than very occasionally dragging out some plastic track, I haven't really had much of a drive for about 10 years. Since we moved to the coast I haven't found anyone else down here who races and I quickly ran out of talent at my first go at building a routed track. I was occasionally taking a couple of cars up to Fyshwick, but once they moved to the other side of Canberra I became a bit of a slot car collector. Anyway, Godzilla was enough of an incentive and Hulme Park Raceway, named obviously after the late, great Denny. I've indulgently named parts of the track based on some of my favourite drives past and emerging. It measures 5.09m on a 180cm x 50cm footprint. Painted with Dulux Suede with a very light sand with 200grit paper just to take the top off the texture. My Formula NSR #27 Ferrari did a 3.5 pretty much out of the box, and two Pioneer Mustangs, one set up for magnetless running on wood, the other set up with a magnet both did 3.6s. I'm hoping to use Race Coordinator on my laptop with a webcam for timing, although having some issues setting it up. PC Lap Counter is triggering, just need to dial the sensitivity in on the hotspot and be a little less reliant on the lap timer on the phone and actually sort it out. And to pretty it up, with some lines and fences and the rest. Anyway, long story short, glad I finally got around to doing something, even if it's small, it'll keep me occupied.

Got some shed time this weekend so decals on. Took the quick & easy path with the peel & stick. I find these good for racing with a car that gets handled a lot.

Hi All, I know it's been a while, but it's getting harder to find time, too many projects. Unfortunately, I find it hard to say no when I get requests LOL. @Kevan - Yep sure is Mate @Manuel Sanchez - They will all be freely available when made printable. May I ask, for all the members interested in these cars, put forward a list of which car should be next and so on. I'll try and get one done a week, should be doable as most are just external bodies. One list though. @Oldschool62 - It's finally printed! I tried to get as much detail on the body as possible, printed not to bad. After 42 hours this is the result with no cleanup, yet. It was an ambitious print, 0.4mm shell thickness - 3 shells, 0.6mm Z height, , 100% infill, 0.25mm Horizontal expansion. 15% support Cheers Vlad

Racing has been going pretty well here in Auckland. We have switched from SSD to oXigen and we have 7 regulars on Wed nights. We are racing GT3 cars with regulations similar to DiSCA GT3 Euro Series. The cars are magnless (of course). The main difference from DiSCA reg are the use of 17K Baby King/Baby Raport motors (the baby sprinter would be too much on this track) and instead of sponges we use NSR tyres. I wanted to give a go at videoing some of the sessions to show how we do digital slot racing up here. The first video below is the 5 min qualify session: we do qualify to set the grid for Race 1. The second video is Race 1: a 14 min endurance race. Our evening racing consists of four races of 14 min each. We use RCSO2 as a race management software which support fuel and tyre simulations: when we run out of fuel and/or tyres we go in the pitlane for a pit stop. I know that some of you might find the track calls annoying: this is the way we like it because instead of having spare people to marshal we are all actively racing which we think is the best way of using our time (who likes sitting there and marshal!). The videos show the racing this Wed evening when only 5 of us could make it. With 7 drivers we are almost at capacity on this track. This means that if we get more people to join us we might switch to team racing in which case, we can use the spare team mates as marshals. The videos were captured on a phone clamped on a vice on top of a shelf so the quality is not the best. Qualify Race 1 if you are in the Auckland area and would like to try your hand at this sort of racing, let me know. We have spare controllers and cars.

It has been nice to see another new model Australian Slotcar and one from such a classic era. I think any Aussie would be happy to see this car released whether you are a Ford or Holden Fan. I am a Ford fan but this model is so well scaled it just looks right and brings back those memories of Brock going for that fastest lap on the last lap of the race all those years ago. At the time I was saddened that Ford had nothing but looking back now I am happy to be able to recreate those grids. The first thing that caught my eye with this car were the wheels which look perfect. Missing are the Marlboro sponsor decals but these are available from Patto's Place or if you are lucky enough to use Armchair Racer as your supplier they were offered in either Watersilde or Peal and Stick as a no cost offer. My only complaint of the model is the front bumper is not sitting straight and is pointing in an upward position which seems to be the norm as both my cars are the same and so it seems are all the others. The famous drop tank is on display with that huge rub it in your face Ford fans Holden decal. The car also displays an interior but not the full interior of the previous L34 4 door model. Instead the interior is a 3/4 interior which for the racers means no grinding away the bottom of the bottom of the interior to get body float. Scalextric seem to be thinking of the racer a lot more with their later cars with simpler interiors that allow easy setup for non magnet racing. The well reverse cowl hood scoop shows is spot on and looks great on the bonnet and the drivers side rear view mirror looks pretty much as it was on the 1 to 1 car. The chassis is different to the 4 door L34 version and is about 1mm lower overall which allows non magnet racers the ability to get that weight down lower to the track which was a problem with the first version. A quick measure up sees the A9X version at 57.5mm across the rear flares while the L34 version is 55.5mm. The rear track of the A9X is 55.5mm which is 2.5mm more than the L34 version and it does make a difference. I am running on a combo of Fleischman and Policar plastic track and the car is very forgiving to drive. I did run it around on some MJK tyres for the Torana but the plastic track makes the standard tyres more fun with some nice smooth drift. I can't tell you if it is as fast as a well tuned Falcon and realistically it probably isn't. But with some tuning it is mush closer than the 4 door L34 version was and the lower chassis helps get that centre of gravity down. The last few pictures are with the decals added and it really makes the car. I am very happy to add this one to the Bathurst collection and have some fun setting it up as classic Aussie cars are few and far between in general. Thanks Scalextric for listening to us all those t=years ago we do appreciate what you are doing for us. And if you can just look at minor quality control you will make everyone happy. If I could add one request it would be to tone down the motor a touch and make it closer to the good old Mabuchi so we are racing cars with similar power. I have changed mine for a SRP 18K slimline but it is my last one. It just makes it so much closer in power to the Falcon it is to compete with.

Couple more added to the list

Tru-blu II has arrived. Made for a 'details challenged' mate for his birthday. Second one went a lot quicker as I printed the body on approx 30deg angle so the roof, boot & bonnet were smooth as. The filling effort was mostly around the lower side. Used up the leftover Patto's decals as they come with two sets. It just needs running gear now.

The XD had it's first hit out tonight and was pretty happy how she went. Came through unscathed with a win by a couple of laps. Was home track advantage though. Good to see something different than a Coupe / Hardtop

Thanks guys. Really appreciate the feedback. Vinno the colour is Tamiya Brilliant Blue TS-44. And Mark yep have a can of TS-35 Park Green for the Greens Tuf build. The chassis is a mash up of one I found on Thingiverse with a pod I drew up blended in. We run this class non podded. Wheel base and track is very similar to the Scaley XB.

Having watched Group A racing I would have to say it is one of my favourite race classes. Being a Ford fan I have always had a soft spot for Dick Johnson when Moffat abandoned us in the Group C days. And being a Mustang fan I loved seeing a Mustang racing. Unfortunately Ford didn't take Group A seriously early on or saw more potential in the Turbo cars so the Mustang never go to realise the potential it had due to being under powered. Dick always said the Mustang was a brilliant car across the top of the mountain but really struggled going up the hill. Anyway I finally got myself into gear to get started on Munters resin body of the Group A Mustang. It is a really well done body with not a lot of clean up required, although I still spent a lot of time on it just making sure it looks as tidy as possible. I am trying to keep my Group A class as close in performance as possible and was thinking about the Slot.it Nissan GTR when I found a chassis with the correct wheelbase for the Mustang. The Slot.it Alfa 155 chassis was perfect with the 80mm wheelbase although I had to cut a bit off the sides, front and rear to make it fit. Here are a few photo's so far that show progress. Paint was an area I was struggling to find as I noticed others over the years were using a Tamiya colour which was just not bright enough. After heaps of research and asking local paint suppliers if they could mix me a can I found I could order a rattle can from Europe with the correct colour of Dulon 913 which is a Renault colour called Verte Laitue. This seemed a stupid idea seeing I would need to wait weeks for it to turn up if at all. More research told me it is basically Green and seemed to look like every green button and dot on the internet. So after much searching I found Bunnings sell a Dulux Paint which looked close enough. Happily after painting today it almost looks a perfect match and will be the colour I use for a DJR XE Falcon when I get a body for that too. I am using a Ninco NC2 motor after some of my others were set up with a NSR Baby King which has close enough specs. I have heaps of old Ninco motors and they are great motors when pushing cars that weight over 100 grams which most Resin cars do. Anyway see progress below.

A couple more pictures of the Mustang progress. I said I made up some lenses for the tail lights from a screw box corners. Below is a picture and maybe a little close up so don't look so pretty here. On the car they look fine though. I just cut the corners off a box and then cut and sanded to size. I scribed some lines to get a straight line to paint the different lens colours and glued on with epoxy. The next picture shows some strips I made from sheet styrene for window trim as I thought it would look a little tidier this way. Cut to size, painted and glued on with flexible superglue. Below shows the window trims in place along with some of the decals so far. The window trims look much better than trying to paint a straight line so this will be something I will do from now on. So far so good.

The finished product replaced the standard scalex control tower (which looked very much out of place) http:// The pits were adapted from a Greenhills garage kit & includes the open top level spectator stand above the pits (which is where my Dad and uncle watched the 1965 Australian Grand Prix from, and saw Bruce McLaren win from Jack Brabham is one of the great GPs of all time) http:// And a couple of overall shots down the Pit straight.... http:// http://

Ok, all together - about to start trimming and fitting into the body, once I gouge out the resin cast one..... Bit fiddly, and a few issues with getting the fine point of the iron into tight spaces - but I got there.... I found that tinning each new piece then "sweating" it into place resulted from the easiest way of placing and setting it into the assembly... It looks very much like a VB Commordore grille at present - but I believe it's much smaller than the VB.... My components may be a little thick in scale size - but I believe the overall effect will be worth the effort... perhaps, it's just the shiny brass which makes it look so heavy - matt or satin black will more than likely give the appearance a reduction in size... Pix.. back later, hopefully with an installed pic or two...... frats, Rosco

I made a Coca Cola billboard for my Le Mans circuit. While they did have some of the "classic" Coke logo billboards, in 1970 this more plain version was also seen at the track. I used styrene to create it, spray painted it white, and then aged it a bit using flat tan & primer gray. These are both just sitting here loose yet, I need to trim the bottoms to fit the terrain & glue them in place.

Saw something like this for a HO car setup, so i thought i'd have a play with tinkercad and see what turns out Made up a framework Then added a "slide in" background Then added some colour And put it all together The base is standard, just add different slide in backs for different cars or makes. Here's the link if your interested in printing it https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5350439 Also been playing with printing and painting some small signage for future tracks

Hi Guys, Heres the latest detailed prototype lane changer by Scorpius, tweaked by Mr Trax himself. It’s a CNC version of the hand routed prototypes made previously. Soon you will be able to buy these and install whatever electronics you wish. Any digital system actually except SCX. It will come in kit form late in 2022. All the wiring recesses, braid feeds, and pockets are neatly routed in place ready to go. The Ninco track pieces actually clip into place. More pics of that later. Rick

Since this is an actual new model and not a repaint of an existing I thought it worth putting together a few pictures and initial impressions of the Tom Walkinshaw TWR John Goss Jaguar that raced and won in the 1985 James Hardie 1000. 1985 was the first year of the International Group A class in Australia and this opened up the Great Race to the Europeans who had the march on the Australian's. Tom Walkinshaw brought across his army of 3 V12 Jaguar XJS race cars and the rest is history. The Jag's had a 5.3 litre V12 and were well ahead of their opposition in this year. Although they were heavy at 1400 kg's they had approximately 500hp and were able to run with the widest tyres and hence a great package early in the classes history. So what of the Scalextric version? It is a great representation of the car and surprisingly narrow and long. The cars advantage is the low roofline which allowed a lower centre of gravity. As far as a slot car this seems to work quite well also. The specifications of the car as follows. Weight 77 grams Length 151 mm Width 54 mm Rear Track 51 mm Height 39 mm The car has all the usual Scalextric features like head and tail lights. Detail is good with excellent tampo printing, body detail with dry break fuel fillers moulded in, radiator grille, wheel detail and bumpers that simulate the brushed stainless look. The interior is limited due to the in line setup used but the driver, roll cage and dashboard detail almost make it perfect. I am one who is more than happy with Scalextrics move to in line motor setups over their typical sidewinder even if it gives up some space for a full interior. The only flaw with the Jaguar I can see is the front tyre gap to the wheel arch which measures at 2 mm. On a 1/32 scale car it is pretty obvious and while I don't want to have a complaint I have to call it out. It makes no difference to how the car runs but takes back a little from what is overall a beautiful representation. The car runs well in magnet form with perfectly round wheels and true axles. I am not a magnet guy so it ran like this on my Policar, Fleischmann plastic track for about 10 laps until I took out the magnet and gave it a run. With no weight added and a light spin on some wet and dry the tyres hooked up OK, not great but it was a bit of run controlling slides. Later I added some weight and took it to 89 grams which makes it the same as my Scalextric Sierra's and M3 BMW's. It did help and the car was surprisingly quick with standard tyres but still over half a second down on my Scalextric cars with Slot.it or NSR tyres. I then added some Slot.it N22 tyres and it was running the same times as my Ford Sierra's and faster than the M3's. Thanks again Scalextric I love the car and keep them coming. After all this I couldn't leave the front end alone and had to fix the front wheel gap by adding a brass axle tube and some thinner braid to drop the front end. Sorry to the purists but my cars are drivers and I had to do it. See the last two pictures if you want to know what I did.

I thought is was time to update members on the status of Auslots possible migration to a new host. Well since my initial communication last month a small group of us have been communicating on options and thoughts for the forum going forward. We have been in communication with a number of potential hosts however with the size of Auslots SQL database, currently at 39GB has left the only option being offered by potential hosts as the use of dedicated hosting service, unfortunately at a cost of over $2,000 per annum. As most of you would be aware here at Auslot we do not charge either members or so called sponsors any fees for membership and at least with members we have no plans or intensions to look to charge in the future. This has meant that up to now all costs associated with running our forum have been met by a select few. As I said, we are not looking to charge members a fee and we are not looking for one off donations as donations could be funding the forum one month/year but then if the donations are not there when host renewals are due we are back again without funds to carry on. We need a steady stream of income to pay hosting and other costs. We have now made the decision that we will approach 6 to 10 sponsors and ask them for a small annual contribution. This we hope will help us manage the costs going forward. What I am asking members is, if they either know of or can assist with a more cost effective solution to allow us to migrate Auslot. If anyone has a relationship or knows of a hosting service that could accommodate our database size of 39 GB and hopefully allow for a larger database as this would allow us to supply members a location to post pictures, something that we have all wanted for quite a period of time. As far as assistance with potential hosts please do not just list a number of hosts after a browser search as I have already done that and contacted at lease a dozen organisations all with no result for the funds we have to spend. What would be really helpful is if you have a relationship with a hosting service who may assist us at a lower cost. Alternatively if you have been personally been involved in a similar migration and have some knowledge which you are able to share. Charlie

I had some spare Tamiya cans of Yellow Paint and thought, what else could I use them on..... appears there are alot of good liveries around. Not going for a authentic replica, just something unique that the other club guys won't have. Only thing is, next time use White primer not grey, Yellow doesn't cover grey very well and needs a few extra coats - always learning.... Project 1: Sideways Grp 5 BMW M1 Sideways White kit Patto Decals Tamiya Yellow Chrome spray can paint Blank canvas All decals on Still need final clear coat over the Decals and some paint and trim highlights and a Chassis.

This year's V8 Supercar sponsors, Repco. Had commissioned us to build a Bathurst track that is pedal powered. It's currently making its way around Australia at some of the 2022 and 2023 Supercar events. We also produced replica Mustangs and Camaros. Race and get fit at the same time.

For some reason I've had these cars for way too long to not have done this before now, maybe, as my racing time is slipping away I seem to have more time to get these little projects done. Each car has its own story, something we could all relate to so finally all of the Lotus projects are done............... 1/24 scale Tamiya lotus 40 I got this car from a fellow Newcastle slot guy who was having a few issues with his track and I volunteered my services to see if we could fix the track,it happened to be on surely the hottest summer day just before Christmas around 2008, he just said to me during the day "you might be interested in this crap,my uncle gave it to me and I have no interest in these bits" Amongst all the assorted mess was this beauty, body was badly knocked about( sorry no pics) but most of it was there, I think the actual time taken for me has been about 3 months or so, the car is 99% original,( I had to get a repro screen.) Monogram Lotus 33 Tamiya bodied Lotus 30 ( Slotit Alfa 33 chassis) Monograms F1 Lotus 33 Ferrari 158 1/32 Tamiya bodied Lotus 30

I'm not driving that ****!...

Finally got the Lola finished, fairly happy with the overall look of the car, although the cold weather here isn't making it any easier, I guess nimble fingers are no longer , along with other parts of my body! anyway hope you like

HI folk, my latest "kitbash" are stripping and re-building/painting two 1965 Mini Coopers. I had one of the original Scalextric ones in green with a beige interior and front wheel drive back in the mid '60's.... dog of a thing, tiny open frame motor and issues with getting the braid to sit on the rails without the tyres getting grip on the track... I practically destroyed it using "kid's" tools (pliers, screwdrivers and other very coarse and crude implements)... and it ended up as a parts body and what was left of the chassis.... pity, it would be a collector's item now. I have been making cars for each member of my family, and thus far have produced a number of models that I actually liked... I asked each one which car they wanted - it it was available, I'd model it for them. We've had 911 Porches, a Dodge Viper, a McLaren and my latest request was for (above anything else he could have asked for) - a Mini Cooper.... I was shocked - it certainly wouldn't have been my choice! not if the first one I had was anything to go on... Knowing he'd have trouble keeping up with the rest of the family on the track, I took sympathy - and ordered two..... the other one so that it could be placed as dedicated competition on a level playing field..... so, it now looks as if I'm paying attention to two models that I really don't want to attack yet..... Both of them came in what I consider to be "fugly".... silver roof with an annoyingly maroon/red body... some might like it, but not me. For me - the "only" colour these little cars should be is British Racing Green with a white roof..... the other one has been asked to be sprayed SMS Pearl Ice with a silver roof (so, the roof is done for me with that model). I started to strip the first one down - and continue to be disgusted on how these are assembled.... hot soldering iron or something on "fitted" parts.... which need to be ground out to remove them.... and stored. I got down to the bare body, but it was a lot of work - some of the ornaments are tiny, and tedious work.... lights, badges, bumpers... the window comes away in two parts... The interior is a shocker - heavy as all heck, but - the dash is very detailed and a credit to the person responsible for tooling it up. I tried all sorts of solvents that were plastic safe to remove the paint..... and it took ages. From metho, brake fluid and SMS paint remover... I had to work and work to get the blasted red paint off.... the silver came away very easily - so, if you have one of these models, you might like to clear coat it with something like SMS Ultra Clear 2K... I used SMS etch primer, then white primer on the red plastic substrate of the model.... blocked the white primer back - and sprayed SMS white .... the red plastic "leached" through.... so, I had to block back again and spraye my favourite SMS grey primer on a little thicker - blocked down and sprayed SMS white top coats.... all good. For the lower body, I used SMS black primer over the etch.... and two generous coats of SMS BRG.... it came up a treat. I used Tamiya masking tape laid down on a sheet of glass then cut using a sharp scalpel.... giving me very sharp lines... the pix below do not do justice - they look terrible, but I am yet to block down the clear coat.... which will remove the over-spray of the masks. Now - for the "trouble" part of the build.... the chassis. Simply put - it's crap...... there is so much slop in the nylon rear axle mounts that they "float" around in it... the axles seem to be aluminum, but worse - the wheels have been pressed onto knurling ..... grrrr. Removing wheels from knurled axles - good luck. I decided that I'd bite the bullet here and turn some aluminium wheels..... the smallest I have ever attempted. Further, I decided (as I have done with other models with plastic wheels) I'd make a Pinkysil mould of the wheels, and turn down the castings from them to make inserts for the aluminium wheels.... My first attempt at turning such a small wheel was a failure - I destroyed all my good work getting the step and rim to spec when I tried to use my favourite tool for boring out the inside of the wheel for the insert.... I made up another boring tool by grinding yet another tungsten carbide cheapy down.... and went again - this time with success. The mould and casts from it went really well.... I managed to get the second wheel done as I wanted, and am now on #3 (of 9, #1 was discarded). With #3, I am changing my procudure... I set up the aluminium stock in the Mill and drill my grub screw hole to just short of where the axle will pass through. I then tap this hole to M2 and remove it for the lathe. I fit up the milled rod into the lathe and turn down the O.D. then the outer rim - and then drill the axle hole. Next I hand drill the remainder of the grub hole and tap it..... this avoids attempting to tap a hole half way between the inner rim diameter and the hub..... which tended to throw the tap to one side and go in "cocked". Next... I bore the recess out of the front for the insert.... And then turn down the inner rim and finally hub.... and part it away from the stock rod. The casting from my Pinkysil mould is then fitted up into the micro lathe I have inside the house - and I turn down casting to make a hub. I reverse the cast and fit the hub into the lathe.. and turn down the casting to match the diameter with that of the recess in the aluminium wheel.... finally, I part the cast off to the width of the recess in the wheel... and it becomes a press fit into the wheel..... Ok, some pix. I love the wheels that Scalextric have produced for this model - they are replica Mini Lite (unless told otherwise) and the "hands" look great. The detail also includes nuts, wheel mount nut and believe it or not! a valve stem... So, here is wheel #2... MJk produce their high quality tyres for these wheels.... ok hope pix came through.... Work continues... turning 8 wheels and inserts. frats, Rosco

At racing this week I mentioned that I had made a dual motor 4WD Metro a while back. I had a few questions about it so here she is: I scratched up a chassis using some old sidewinder chassis's that I had lying around. It goes great. Handles really well and, with all the weight spread evenly front and rear, it sure doesn't need any extra ballast!

You're asking the $64,000 question. For what it's worth here's my observations. Brumos's car is an NSR so it has the benefit of coming out of the factory with a lightweight body and dimensions (width, length, height) tested by NSR to be pretty spot on. Your car has a 3D chassis, probably not designed by a team of engineers for best performance but designed to fit the Scalex Honda body. My car, like yours, also has an aftermarket chassis but that chassis is from one of the best handling cars ever built - the Scaleauto Toyota GT1. It's fitted to a Scalex Calibra body that I lightened as much as I could with a dremel. I also spent weeks testing with lead in various spots so it was as perfect as I could make it. I had 4 x Scaleauto chassis's set up in different ways and constantly tested them against each other to get the best one. Then I gave it to my brother who made it even better. I had 8 other proxy cars I went through before deciding on the Calibra. Some were close in performance. One was better but not as consistent and you must have a car that is easy to drive on the limit that doesn't deslot. I spend a lot of time getting the front of the car setup so it (almost) never deslots, just slides out. There's probably a dozen other things that make my car magic to drive but there's no way I can tell you what the magic ingredient is. If I knew then all my cars would be race winners and unfortunately they aren't. Hope I haven't confused you even more. Cheers Paul

RIP Sir Frank.16 April 1942 - 28 November 2021

Ferrari 512M - #16 24h Le Mans 1971 drivers: C.Craft, D.Weir code: CA51a availability: April / May 2022 The Ferrari 512S had failed to beat the Porsche 917s in the 1970 World Sportscar Championship. Despite their higher weight and greater consumption, the car had shown winning potential, but the rushed-in construction had left reliability issues unresolved. An unusual bad luck struck at Le Mans, where an accident eliminated four of the five 512S in one stroke. For the ending part of the season Ferrari decided to create a lighter and aerodynamically advanced version: thus the 512M (Modified). The new 'M' model proved immediately faster than the 'S' version, but took its first steps only three weeks before the last Championship race at Österreichring (now Red Bull Ring), where Jacky Ickx led the race until he had to retire due to an alternator failure. The first victory of the new Ferrari took place in South Africa on 7 November 1970, in a race outside the World Championship, in the hands of Ickx / Giunti who reached the finish line three laps ahead in the Porsche 917K driven by Siffert / Ahrens. In 1971, however, despite the excellent end of the 1970 season for the 512M, Ferrari decided to concentrate the company's efforts on a car in line with the 1972 regulations, leaving the 512M to private teams: the 512M, therefore, despite its outstanding performance, could never prove its true value. It remains, however, one of the most beautiful and iconic Sports Prototypes in the history of motorsport. The CA51a model represents the car of Team David Piper which, driven by Chris Craft and David Weir at the Le Mans 24 Hours in 1971. Starting 13th from the grid, the car dropped to 44th place in the 2nd hour of the race but climbed back to an excellent 4th place overall.

I see Metro Hobbies has on their site the Mean Machine and the Compact Pussycat as coming soon Looks like MPC may be re releasing them all. No mention of the other kits but i would assume that if they are available they will stock them All in 1/32nd scale I can see a lot of scratch building going on, plus good track decorations as well.

I planned on posting this up a couple of weeks ago but didn't quite get there. Scalextric have sent us another 2 new Aussie race cars which are always appreciated. Both cars have very attractive liveries and the Falcon in particular a nice change from the Red works Ford Falcons of Allan Moffat. Moffat was my favourite at the time but it is nice to see this car in particular. The paint is stunning and looks fantastic on the track. The French car is the second place getter from Bathurst 1972 and the year Brock beat the big guns in the little XU1 Torana where the wet conditions played into Holden's lap. It was also Brock's first win and the first year the cars were allowed some modifications which was to stop the manufacturers building 160 mph road versions of their cars. The Brock car is another nice looking livery and his second win. Some very nice detail on the car including the Hotwire wheels which look very nice with some sharp detail down to the wheel nuts. My only issue with the Torana is the axles are a little narrow meaning the wheels sit a little too far inboard. I did run both cars with magnets seeing I have plastic track but quickly pulled them out and ran them minus magnet and with the standard tyres. With a little bit of a sanding the Falcon ran very well and prompted me to set up all my other XW and XY Falcon's with a little weight and standard tyres. They drive well and quite realistically although I have noticed half of my Falcons have loose rear bush mounts in the chassis so will fix them at some stage. The Torana tyres really can't cope with the slimline motors power and it is all over the track. So I will eventually sort the Torana too as I find them a challenge but rewarding when the are done properly. Thanks again Scalextric we love the cars and will keep buying them of you keep making them. Maybe a few more liveries during the year please as we just don't seem to get enough of them. And maybe some other Australian cars also I am sure they will sell.

Yello flag Pit road closed (pit entry lanebrane locked) cars on pit road can finish fueling and Tires. Lane brane forces all traffic to a lane outside of pit exit. so safety car may enter track without being hit Safety car enters track from pit exit position of all cars frozen no cars should pass safety car. All cars must maintain position (drivers will have to allow room to change lanes being courteous and maintain position) no laps are counted until are cars are in proper position when all cars are in proper position Pit road opens X= number of laps Safety car returns to pits x= number of laps green flag at start finish line no speeding before green flag this is just how I would do it if I could automate this... im positive its not perfect, but this is the most basic Yellow flag I have experienced over the years. i know there are people who would love Prototypical rules for all of the major Race Divisions, but this seems to work with oval and road course type racing

Bought a Pioneer Legends white kit and did a different paint job on it, hate turning up and having 20 of the same car on the track. Got to thinking while i was building it if anything else would fit the chassis Luckily the slicer program lets you adjust the dimensions of a object to anything you want to print So here's a rough draft of a XD Falcon Legends

Arvo Warren, I will put the cart before the horse, you have the classes and regs. The main idea behind our racing classes and regs is to keep costs as low as possible for everyone, if you don't have a car that meets the regs, that's ok, don't panic, bring what you want to run, there is a very high probability that you can borrow a class car from myself or some one else, we usually bring two of each car class, main runners and the backup cars, soon as we hear you don't have a class car, someone will offer you their backup car. We like to keep it very informal, relaxed and fun, yes we take the mickey out of each other all in good humour of course, there are times when someone (me with myself) will have the shits due to their cars breaking down, crap grip, or simply just having a bloody bad day Bring along your scratch builds, even if they aren't class cars you can still run them and have fun and learn the different tracks hopefully. You know you have an open door to my track for tuning and testing, all we need now is to get these restrictions lifted so we can get back to group racing. Johnno

I finally got some time to finish this project off. I scratched up a new spoiler and threw on some paint / decals. It's been a fun build and the car runs really nicely. Thanks for looking.

I dropped the front on my one, more fitting to the way i do things, rip, tear, bust. Removed the front bumper from the chassis and glued it to the body in the same position Ground away the inside supports of the bumper so it followed the silver all the way around Ground the side supports on the body as well as the motor supports on the chassis also the front body mounts. Ground away the bumper supports on the chassis and ground back the top of the spoiler so they were flush. Cut away the support for the lights and ground the bottom of the light board down about a mill Fitted it all back and much more goodera. Before ........ After ....... Still not happy they couldn't get the stripe right, but glad they built it, now for the 3 pack no's 8, 9 & 10, just in time for Xmas

And another with the car finished.

Over the years I’ve been steadily collecting Le Mans winners from 1949 to 1999. Unfortunately there a few Ferrari-sized holes in it that I have not filled. I managed to pick up some old Nincos which will help, but they need a bit of work. These older Ninco are a bit toy-like – the plastic is too thick in some places, the shape not always correct and the paint is translucent. This two-tone paint is a bit of an oddball choice by Ninco. I started work on the 166MM first – the Testa Rossa will take some patience. The 166MM won in 1949 driven by Luigi Chinetti and Lord Selsdon – and really cemented Chinetti’s relationship as Ferrari’s North American distributor and owner of the North American Racing Team. After stripping the car down, I detailed the cockpit in what I thought the correct colours might be. I saw this car in the Le Mans museum trimmed in blue suede upholstery which does not seem period-correct. The instruments were printed on a transparent sticker that I peeled off and replaced after the aluminium paint. The shiny chrome plastic wheels were replaced with Mitoos wire wheels from Armchair Racer. The body was sanded back and repainted in Ferrari red. The early Ferraris were said to be painted in a darker red, but I have not been able to find any period colour photos of the car, so I stuck with what I know. Decals were from Pattos. Here it is assembled. During the race it had a driving light in front of the grill, which was scavenged from an old diecast Cobra. I shaved the body posts and under the interior tray to drop it down and get rid of the wheel arch gaps. The rear details are not quite correct, but I didn't want to mess it up having got this far.

Here is a build I did a while ago to plug a gap in my collection of Le Mans winners. I was always a bit frustrated that Slot It did the 1983 and 1989 winners only in box sets. Getting a white kit and building this one was a no-brainer being a single colour. Not sure the Porsche would be as easy. Nicely packaged parts. The car comes like this – lack of instructions was a bit frustrating. Up to this point, things were going really well. Paint and decals went on nicely. There were a few flaws in the clear coat – I could do a better job now, but it came out OK.

Assembled my printer during Lockdown and have printed a few track scenery items and spectators. This is my first attempt at a car body. A little Hillman Imp. Printed in PLA with full supports. Quite pleased how it came out. Bonnet had the most noticeable 'steps' so a little sanding and Tamiya putty - we are getting closer. A very basic inline chassis file came with the Imp. It works OK so I'll print some supports and roll with it. May need to tweak the wheelbase but getting there...

New Scorpius F1 chip fitted into a Thunderslot Lola. Third picture shows new versus old. It’s amazing how fast technology moves. Rick Aussieslotter

Stay tuned.... In case anyone is unfamiliar with the relevance of the expression "A Pack Of &^#%&*)*&" I already sent this video to Maurizio with a detailed explanation of what is required...... Let the plinth wars begin....... Suggested Plinth lettering Nissan Skyline GT-R - 1992 1st Bathurst “Gentleman Jim” Richards, some guy called Skaifey I actually thought it would make a great 3rd line if it could be squeezed onto the plinth. Nissan Skyline GT-R - 1992 1st Bathurst “Gentleman Jim” Richards, some guy called Skaifey " You're A Pack Of &^#%&*)*& " yeah , that works....... And in case anyone actually doesn't know his record Racing career summary Jim Richards Races entered 990 Wins 207 Podiums 510 Pole positions 78 Fastest laps 155 Race win percentage 20.9% Podium percentage 51.5%

Tired of my Fly Alpha (ghastly inline chassis) 512 Coda Lunga sitting in the drawer doing nothing. The Alpha body is lighter than the regular version and it also has a light-weight tray interior which is great if it's required to undergo a change of chassis. Turns out with minimal work a Policar 330 P4/ 412P chassis is easy to install. The pod side mounting holes line up with the body posts and I had to add a new chassis mount at the front behind the guide that lines up with the front body post. Last night it had its 1st real run and was holding its own against a NSR Ford Mk4 so I'm happy with that and it looks real good hunkered down and going for it.

I needed some larger trees for my Steve McQueen Le Mans Tribute layout, so here is a step by step tutorial on how I made them. Start with a standard twig, and narrow a bit towards the top. This is about 14" tall. The trick is to find one that is fairly straight. Next I drilled a bunch of 1/16th in holes in it, including the base. The holes in the trunk are for branches, the hole in the bottom is for a piece of wire to stick into the layout foam. You might find that for some branches you will have to ream the holes out a bit to make them bigger. I super glued the wire in place. Next I added branches using a natural material marketed as "SuperTrees". It is sold by Scenery Express. I used gel super glue to glue the branches in place. Next I sprayed the whole tree with flat, dark brown spray paint. Next I spray painted the foliage parts using flat green. Don't worry if a little gets on the trunk, you can just mist the trunk a bit more w/the brown. Finally, a misted on some spray adhesive & sprinkled on some "leaves". I got the leaves from Scenery Express. Placed on the layout. Looking up at 1/32 scale figure eye level. Any questions?

Here are a few pics of where my build is up to Just a little more work and then ready for paint Hope to be finished by end of next weekend Look forward to seeing all the finished builds